NEWSLETTER FEATURES

Champagne & Sparkling For the Holidays

Gatinois Brut Tradition Aÿ Grand Cru NV
$54.99/$43.99 by the case*

Sumptuous and warm-toned, this personality-filled Champagne is a hedonistic joy to behold, with its rose gold color, effusive aromatics, generous flavors and luscious texture. Twelfth generation winemaker Louis Gatinois farms just over 15 acres in the Grand Cru village of Aÿ in the Vallée de Marne, whose vineyards produce some of the best Pinot Noir in the region. A beautifully-balanced blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay with 30% reserve wine from previous vintages, this showcases the boldness of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay’s liveliness and acidity, and the depth and complexity of the reserve wine. 

While some Champagnes charm with their precision and focus, this delights with elegance and the sheer variety of textures and flavors. Aromatically expressive, the nose offers notes of dried raspberry, pie crust, fresh green herb, spicy ginger and more. Take a sip and enjoy an intoxicating jumble of delicate cherry, zesty red berry, apricot and toasted hazelnuts, all intertwined with a light mineral flinty note that adds structure. The bubbles get pillowy soft with some air before transforming to a satisfying richness on the finish. With just over 3000 cases produced annually we feel lucky to have access to such a distinguished treat.

Diebolt-Vallois Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV
$49.99/$39.99 by the case*

A standout customer favorite several years ago, we had forgotten just how beguiling this is: energetic yet classy, it’s a lovely trifecta of citrus vibrancy, balanced complexity and elegant poise. 100% Chardonnay grown in the Côte des Blancs, it serves as a delicious counterpoint to the Gatinois above. Diebolt’s vineyards are mostly located in the Grand Cru village of Cramant and neighboring village of Cuis, whose classically chalky soils are the perfect terroir for lacy, mineral-driven Champagnes like this one. 

The aromatics are pretty and mouthwatering, an airy mix of lemon meringue, marzipan, vanilla and floral fennel frond. With its soft, caressing mousse and fresh feel it seems to dance across the palate with short bursts of detailed flavors – lightly buttered toast, crisp apple, white peach and salted almond – before ending with a lemony flourish on the long creamy finish. It’s a winning combination of flavors and textures that is hard to find at this price.

Langlois Crémant de Loire Brut NV
$21.99/$17.60 by the case* 

Playfully extroverted in style, this delightful sparkler’s charms almost belie the quality behind the festive façade. An historic estate that was taken under Bollinger’s direction in 1973, winemaking is as Champagne-like as possible – hand harvesting the fruit, only using first press juice, including previous vintages’ reserve wine in the final blend, and three years aging on the lees. The result is a polished and refined bubbly whose dazzling array of flavors are so well integrated they never overwhelm.

A blend of 60% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay and 20% Cabernet Franc, the gorgeous nose blossoms with the perfume of exotic flowers, candied anise, toasted brioche and vanilla. The flavors on the palate are lively, fruity and complex – lemon cream, poached pear, red berry and ripe nectarine with nutmeg-spiced shortbread melting into a soft velvety finish. If you liked the Château Mauny last year this is a similar style and a big step up in quality. 

Moutard Méthode Traditionelle Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
$19.99/$15.99 by the case*

If not for the price, someone might grab this new-to-Portland cuvée thinking it’s true Champagne – since for those that know it, Moutard is Champagne and the label looks almost the same. Normally Champagne producers don’t go into competition with themselves by making a sparkling wine from just outside the appellation but happily that’s what we have here! 100% Chardonnay from vineyards not far from Chablis, the underlying clay-limestone Kimmeridgian terroir give this a lightly earthy, minerally personality. Extended lees aging adds a yeasty, brown spice component and low dosage keeps it dry, elegant and transparent, allowing the purity of the fruit to shine. Flavors of golden Mirabelle plum and green apple are accented by a floral, gingery spiciness while lightly succulent notes of lemon oil expand on the clean refreshing finish. 

Cune Cava Brut NV
$13.99/$11.20 by the case*

Our value pick last year and a good one at that, we weren’t surprised when it came in first in this year’s blind tasting. Cune is a legendary Rioja winery founded in 1879 with well over a hundred years of awards, innovation and history. One little-known storyline is that Cune produced sparkling wine in Rioja for many years early on. With Champagne’s vineyards ravaged by phylloxera, someone had to keep the bubbles flowing! Fast forward to a few years ago and a resurrection of Cune sparkling, this time from Penedés, Spain’s bubbly heartland. A classic blend of Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada, this once again stood out for its clean fresh profile and happy-go-lucky flavors. Light baking spice and yeasty toasty aromas lead to baked apple and pear on the palate, while crisp flinty notes linger on the lemony finish. 

*Special prices are valid through Dec 31st

Holiday Treats with Bottle Age

Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino “Campo alle Noci” 2018
$29.99 (!!)/$23.99 by the case Normally $40+
Brunello for 30 bucks? We were hesitant but also hopeful and excited at the opportunity, especially given the holiday season. After one glass we were like “yeah, this will make some friends.” Poggio Salvi sits on the south side of Montalcino on a small hilltop surrounded by oak forests and vineyards with views of the valley running toward the sea. Their style is traditional and elegant, emphasizing aromatic complexity, balance and finesse – which is exactly what you’ll find here.

A 92-point Vinous review (at $49) from December 2022 describes it nicely: “this presents an inviting blend of crushed strawberries, plums and violets as it blossoms in the glass. It's soft and round on the palate, with brisk acidity that propels its ripe wild berry fruits, as a staining of minerals and fine tannin collect toward the close. [It] is perfumed with inner rose and lavender tones throughout the long and structured finale…”

Virna Borgogno Barolo “Noi” 2017
$39.99/$31.99 by the case
New to us and a favorite at a recent Friday night Barolo tasting, this older vintage is in a prime drinking window with classic Nebbiolo character married to a generous yet silky texture. Part of a family who has owned vineyards in Barolo since 1720, Virna Borgogno was the first woman in Italy to complete a degree in oenology, joining her father in the cellar in 1988. Since 2001 she and her sister Ivana have run the family estate.

This “Noi” cuvée (meaning “us”) is a blend of fruit from four different villages – Monforte d’Alba, La Morra, Verduno and Novello – which helps give the wine complexity and balance. The flavors run dark and spicy, black cherry edged with clove, pepper and hints of licorice while a background perfume of floral rose and earthy tobacco add brightness and depth. This drinks well over a few days, softening and revealing different personalities; that is if you can resist finishing it the first night.  

Amalie Robert Pinot Noir The Uncarved Block Willamette Valley 2016
$30.99/$24.80 by the case

Allow me to let the late, great wine critic Josh Raynolds make the introduction here: "Dena Drews and Ernie Pink have been quietly producing some of Oregon's most elegant and perfumed Pinots since the 2004 vintage. Their 30-acre vineyard outside the town of Dallas, abutting the famed Freedom Hill vineyard, is painstakingly farmed and yields are kept low so production of these wines is limited. Winemaking includes abundant use of whole clusters, which is no doubt responsible for the wines' exotic bouquets and sneaky structure…"

“Quietly” is a good way to put it: we reconnected with Dena and Ernie earlier this year when a customer drank an Amalie Robert Pinot in Texas, loved it and asked could we get it. I asked what vintage; when he replied 2010, I said highly unlikely. I was wrong! Dena and Ernie clearly love what they do and seem in no hurry to push their progeny from the nest. Multiple past vintages are still available; we currently stock 2010, 2012 and this lovely 2016 which is a blend of all the different blocks of their vineyard, a balanced reflection of varied soil types, microclimates and clonal selection. Dark fruited and spicy, it’s a perfect combination of the winery’s elegant style and a warm vintage, with its generous yet silky texture and deep well of flavors. At eight years from harvest, it has a mellow, integrated feel as subtle sandalwood and pipe tobacco aromas perfume the dark cherry fruit and linger on the long juicy finish. As I wrote simply in my tasting notes, “delicious older vintage, very cool for the price.”   

November Favorites Drinking Great

Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino 2020
$15.99/$12.80 by the case  Originally $28
Wow, what a crazy holiday deal on this 100% Sangiovese from one of Montalcino’s oldest estates. Called an “excellent value” at its original price in a 91-point review, we were slightly shocked when we saw this lower price. Col d’Orcia is a venerable, historic estate with a forward-thinking approach about sustainability; certified organic since 2013, they now have over 1000 acres farmed biodynamically making them the largest certified organic vineyard in all of Tuscany.

Made in an open-knit accessible style compared to their ageworthy Brunello, this captures the essence of Tuscan Sangiovese with lovely perfumed aromatics, a layered complex palate and a long, polished finish. Floral woodsy aromas of rose, forest floor and dried sage lead to lightly sappy notes of bright cherry and strawberry while the finish brings fine-grained tannins and a delicate citrus lift. Elegant and fresh when first opened, with air it gets richer and smoother and the finish longer and more detailed. A wine of finesse and class, I’ll be real happy revisiting this frequently over the coming years.

Domaine Fond Croze Rasteau 2022
$19.99/ $15.99 by the case   
Let’s try this again! This was offered in last month’s newsletter but oops…the wine itself wasn’t actually in town; bad intel, but a wine this good is worth the wait. The 2020 vintage of this was a big hit last fall and given the high quality of 2022 across the board, we’re excited to have this.

An organic old-vine blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, it drinks like some wineries’ Châteauneuf du Pape, not such a surprise as many Rasteau vineyards are covered in the same large rounded stones (galets) that make Châteauneuf so special. Critic Jeb Dunnuck describes this nicely, highlighting its deep dark flavors and finely polished texture: “black raspberries, darker cherries, flowers and violet notes, as well as some classic Rasteau scorched earth, all emerge… a pure, medium to full-bodied, seamless Rasteau with fine tannins and a great finish”.

Trimbach Pinot Gris Alsace Réserve 2017
$18.99/$15.20 by the case   Regularly $31
Based in the medieval storybook village of Ribeauvillé, 12th generation Trimbach is one of the most respected names in Alsace and a reference point for dry, serious, long-lived wines. As one of the largest owners of Grand Cru vineyards in the region, even their non- single vineyard designated wines can possess striking intensity and depth. This older-vintage-yet-current-release treat is a revelation on how well a high-quality Pinot Gris can age and improve.

The nose is “deluxe”, as one taster called it – redolent of white flowers, vanilla cream, citrus and brown baking spice. After several years in bottle the texture is beautifully well-knit, supple and saturated with flavors of apricot, Bosc pear and ripe apple. The initial wave of plump fruit catches an undercurrent of spiny acidity midpalate keeping it fresh and crisp before finishing decidedly dry and minerally. Easily enjoyed with a variety of dishes or alone, it would shine with the typical flavors of Thanksgiving or a perfectly roasted chicken.

Vall Llach Embruix Priorat 2022
$27.99/$22.40 by the case
A favorite bold Spanish red from years ago, we tasted it recently and immediately remembered why we liked it so much. A blend of Garnacha, Cariñena, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, there's so much going on here with its flavors and textures that it drinks like an older, more expensive wine. What makes Priorat so unique is the soil – a wild-looking broken black slate called llicorella that gives good Priorat reds an unmistakable minerally spicy note that is a perfect foundation for the dark, rich fruit. Aromas of lavender, aniseed, espresso and dark chocolate fade into mellow plum and blackberry on the velvety palate while whispery tannins linger on the long, spicy finish.  

Yohan Lardy Moulin à Vent Les Michelons 2022
$23.99/$19.20 by the case
Moulin à Vent is arguably the most serious of the ten Beaujolais crus, known for producing more structured and powerful wines thanks to its iron-flecked red granite terroir. This longtime shop favorite is a great example, tasting more like red Burgundy made from Pinot Noir then what most people think of as Beaujolais. Les Michelons is a five-acre vineyard and the fruit for this comes from crazy old vines – plots planted in 1950, 1911 and 1903! Add in 100% whole cluster fermentation and the result is a concentrated, layered red that kept getting better and better with air. The aromatics are floral and spicy – rose petal, licorice, white pepper and rosemary – while the red/black fruit has an intense compote-like quality, from black raspberry to black cherry. Deep and winey with iron-tinged earthy notes on the finish this is traditional Beaujolais at its finest.

Fritz Haag Estate Riesling Feinherb Mosel 2022
$20.99/$16.80 by the case 
We’ve been fans and drinkers of Fritz Haag Rieslings since the mid-90s (are we dating ourselves?). Prized for their pure clean flavors and focused fresh acidity, they’re simply a joy to drink. We included this bottle in a summer tasting as a warm-up of sorts to the “better, more serious” wines to follow and it quickly became the favorite of the night.

Dry yet perfectly balanced with succulent fruit, it crackles with intensity and freshness, from its thrilling aromatics to its lip-smacking finish. Thanks to a little trapped CO2, an almost imperceptible spritz propels the flavors along weaving through a trail of disparate tastes: lime zest mellows to vanilla cream soda and pie crust then detours into fresh fennel and cool white peach, before ending with a citrus-y, minerally snap.

Caves du Paradis (Olivier Roten) Gamaret Valais 2022
$21.99/$17.60 by the case
Back for an encore, this turned out to be quite the unexpected hit last November and happily the same vintage is still available. As one customer put it recently, “I swear dude, that Gamaret gets better every time I grab it.” Gamaret is a hybrid between Gamay and the obscure Reichensteiner varietal. Created in 1970 it is grown almost exclusively in Switzerland with scattered plantings in Italy’s Val d’Aoste and parts of France. It is even (gasp!) authorized in Beaujolais as it is very similar to Gamay with many positive viticultural attributes. This one is grown on steep slopes in the Valais region, in the heart of the Swiss Alps close to the French and Italian borders. Despite its Alpine provenance it tastes like a fuller-bodied, darker spicier Beaujolais with a curious mix of cool-climate elegance and brooding intensity. Mellow dusty blackberry and late summer blueberry are joined by brighter pops of pomegranate and ground black pepper while fine tannins ride out the toothsome finish. Like the eleventh Cru of Beaujolais that you’ve never heard about…

Previous Favorites Still Available

Bodegas Ego “El Goru 38 Barrels” Jumilla 2020
$16.99/$13.60 by the case
Don’t be put off by the “mad hairy fella” on the label, this Spanish red is one you want to know. 85% Monastrell (Mourvèdre) and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon from Spain’s southeastern Jumilla region this is a brilliant combination of power, lush fruit and textural elegance. If this were from Washington it would seem absurdly undervalued, but Jumilla is so viewed as a value region even wines as good as this – with a 96-point review from Decanter no less – don’t escape the lower pricing orbit. 

38 Barrels is a flagship cuvée produced from the most characterful/expressive 38 barrels in the cellar each vintage, selected by winemaker Irene Gomez. Deep, dark and brooding yet with a silky, creamy texture, the plush blackberry foundation is studded with notes of concentrated black currant, peppercorn, spicy oak, roasted meat, black olive, cinnamon and more. Whether paired with end-of-summer steaks on the grill or early fall hearty stews, this powerhouse will stand up to the richest of flavors.     

Planeta Mamertino Sicily 2017
$23.99/$19.20 by the case     Originally $37
Another older vintage jewel discovered rooting around the metaphorical cellar, finding this was like traveling to a familiar region and still being surprised and charmed by something new. Mamertino is a small, little-known appellation on Sicily’s far northeastern coast. A blend of 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% the rare indigenous varietal Nocera, this is, as a glowing review in Vinous exclaims, “a unique and gorgeous expression of variety and place”. The 8-hectare vineyard sits very close to the sea surrounded by 20 hectares of ancient olive groves and the wine’s aromas and flavors seem marked by this primeval setting. Juniper-inflected, slightly minty aromatics deepen into bold woodsy spice and savory notes that called to mind a nicely aged Tuscan red. Dusty red cherry and plum contrast well with darker saturated notes of marionberry and boysenberry as a core of acidity brings a spark of energy that enlivens the mouthcoating fruit. Medium weight and supple with suave tannins, the lively finish brings more complexity with aromatic pops of orange zest, cured tobacco and meaty bacon. A fun interesting wine, this would pair great with the earthy flavors of fall. 

Fento Albarino Rias Baixas 2023
$20.99/$16.80 by the case
A lively mineral-driven white from Spain’s northwest coast, the 2023 vintage just arrived and it reminds us of the first vintage we sold a few years ago when customers first fell in love with it. A personal project of winemaker Eulogio Pomares and wife Rebeca Montero, the fruit comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards composed of mica and granite. With minimal intervention during winemaking – native yeast, stainless steel, low sulfur – the essence of the fruit and rocky terroir shines through. Bursting with freshness and clarity, the nose offers floral zesty notes of lime, basil and chamomile. The palate is snappy yet supple, dripping with Meyer lemon and fresh pear, flavors that remain supercharged through the crisp spearmint-laced finish. 

Reload Alert:  It’s back, same vintage and great price!
Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico 2021
$20.99/$16.80 by the case
“Old school charm at an old school price” promised our rep and when tasted we had to agree. In the ocean of Chianti the good ones float to the top and so do their prices. Luckily so far not this one, although it was just awarded the coveted Tre Bicchieri designation in the 2024 Gambero Rosso (Italy’s most prestigious wine guide), only one of five Chianti Classico wines (out of hundreds) to receive that highest designation. So, let’s enjoy it while we can! Impressive for its bold yet balanced personality, the fruit runs dark and full with appealing rustic touches. Aromatic suggestions of a cedar chest, forest floor, briary bramble and allspice add nuance and a sense of place to the mouth-filling dark cherry and black plum fruit while palate-refreshing acidity keeps the adventure moving along.

La Quercia Aglianico Puglia 2023   
$14.99/$11.99 by the case 
This old favorite just arrived and is as deliciously decadent as remembered. While lighter reds, rosés and whites make sense for summer, sometimes a rich, luscious red just hits the spot. Although La Quercia is located in Abruzzo, the family also owns a seven-acre vineyard farther south in Puglia planted surprisingly with Aglianico. An ancient Greek varietal, it is mostly found in Campania and Basilicata where the volcanic soil tends to produce structured, tannic and long-lived versions, often with a pronounced peppery note. 

This Puglia version offers a more open personality: full bodied, ripe, and mouthfillingly soft with just a hint of the varietal’s peppery mineral grip on the finish. Clearly touched by the sun, it offers a pool of dark plum and black cherry fruit accented with appealing tones of toffee, cocoa, cured tobacco and allspice. We haven’t offered it for a couple of years so for those of you who have been asking: it’s back!

Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie “La Pépie” 2023
$16.99/$13.60 by the case
The Muscadet region, located near the mouth of the Loire, has long been seen by wine insiders as one of the best values for dry, minerally saline, character-filled whites with a dizzying array of soil types to obsess over (and drink!). The varietal here is Melon de Bourgogne and to balance the grape’s brisk acidity, many producers age the wines on the dead yeast cells or lees (sur lie). This adds a warm-toned bread dough spiciness and extra dimension to this light-bodied varietal. Pépière has long been a favorite among the cult of Muscadet, a domaine that combines high quality and soil-driven character with affordability and sheer deliciousness.

A few years ago at a Friday night Muscadet tasting showcasing eight different soil types with prices up to $50, the $15 La Pépie was a favorite. Newly arrived, this 2023 hits all the right notes. Mildly floral with a sea salt breeze, the palate is crisp yet juicy with a vein of acidity carrying flavors of melon, lemon oil, pear and a yeasty white pepper spiciness. Long a staple of Paris oyster bars, Muscadet pairs extremely well with cheeses, chicken and pork – plus other fish and shellfish of course!

Uval Umanu Blanc Île de Beauté 2022
$18.50/$14.80 by the case 
Officially part of France since 1769, Corsica was for centuries under the cultural influence of Italy (the city-state of Genoa specifically) and in many ways is more like its southern neighbors Sardinia and Sicily than mainland France. Like many other Corsican wineries, Uval features organic viticulture, limited production, native varietals that reflect the region’s independent culture… and an excellent value!

A blend of 70% Vermentinu and 30% Biancu Gentile from the rugged northeastern coast of Corsica, this opens lively and brisk with a lemony, salty sea spray tang and thyme-scented minerality before turning sappier on the more exotically flavored palate. Its charm lies in this balanced tension – crisp and snappy yet polished and generous with alternating waves of citrus, wildflower, pear, limestone, mango, pineapple and an earthy kiss of white pepper on the long, lip-smacking finish. With so few Corsican whites available and typically at higher prices, we are happy to have this for late summer.

Secret Squirrel Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2018
$20.99/$16.80 by the case      
Without a doubt our best-selling NW Cab over the past six months, the vintage recently rolled into 2018 and the cases keep rolling out the door. The well-known secret here is that this is made by Corliss Cellars, one of Walla Walla’s most prestigious wineries. But… if you don’t know that or don’t like animal labels you might not pick this one up. The quality and taste, however, are exactly what you would expect from a winery like Corliss and this new vintage tastes a lot like the 2017, just a bit bolder and more concentrated. Full-bodied and polished, the blackberry, black currant and cherry kirsch flavors are accented by bass notes of cedar, dark chocolate and spicy oak. Despite its age there’s still plenty of power and muscle below; with air it softens and gets prettier revealing brighter red berry, rosy floral aromas and even a subtle lemony lift. A much nicer wine than the price suggests, the Wine Advocate minced no words in their review: "this wine over-delivers for the price and will outperform the competition once it's released. Buy it by the case.”

Masseria Li Veli Askos Susumaniello Salento 2021
$22.99/$18.40 by the case
I decided to pour this at a recent tasting focusing on Italy’s lesser-known wines and I’m glad I did. People absolutely loved it and I was reminded just how delicious, different and fun this wine is. Aside from making the typical Apulian varietals such as Negroamaro and Primitivo, Li Veli has a project named Askos that focuses on rediscovering ancient native varietals that are in danger of disappearing. According to the importer, there are only 125 acres of Sussumaniello planted in all of Italy. I would expect that number to increase as more wine drinkers are exposed to its unique charms.

Extremely expressive, the perfumed aromatics offer a cedar box of dried flowers, pipe tobacco, black licorice and eucalyptus. The texture is super silky and the flavors initially soprano bright – tangy black raspberry with a black currant chaser. With air the texture plumps and the flavors darken as blackberry-encased tannins firm up the finish. With its complicated layers of flavor and rich yet lively texture this is an ancient varietal definitely worth rediscovering. 

Francis Blancet Pouilly Fumé ‘Calcite’ 2022
$22.50/$18 by the case
“Sauvignon Blanc by way of Chablis!” is how the importer describes this and with one sip it is easy to see the connection. Pouilly Fumé is prized for its flint-rich soils and fruit for the ‘Calcite’ cuvée comes from vineyards also rich in chalky Kimmeridgian marl, similar to that found in Chablis. The result is a minerally marriage made in heaven. Distinctive and invigorating, this abundance of spicy, flinty, saline aromas is the perfect intro to the tightrope of zesty flavors – juicy Meyer lemon, tangy tangerine and a slightly exotic Kiwi note. As it warms and opens softer notes of lemon oil and nectarine emerge, broadening the palate but it maintains its racy minerally vein well through the long crunchy finish.     

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