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on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have
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please check with us for current pricing and availability.
January/February 2010
New Deals for a New Decade
Stag's Leap Winery Petite Sirah Napa Valley 2006
Regularly $40, while it lasts $23.99/$19.20 case.
Stags' Leap Winery Merlot Napa Valley 2006
Regularly $32, while it lasts $17.99/$14.40 by the case.
Happy New Year! That is what the folks at Stags' Leap Winery want for
you. So, they offered up this short-lived year-end deal with blow-out
pricing on some Napa Valley classics. A grand old name, the "jumping
stag" label first appeared in 1893 (!) and has been a leading property
since the 1970s. Looking to blast out some inventory before 2010
started, they offered and we leapt at the chance (bad pun alert!). 2006
was a superb vintage for Napa; a late harvest gave the wines
concentration and complexity. The Petite Sirah is among Napa's best and
is often "restaurant only." Dense and dark with ripe blackberry and
marionberry, there's shades of cocoa, vanilla oak, and leathery spice
notes embedded in the concentrated core of fruit. The Merlot is classic
southern Napa: medium-weight and juicy with zesty wild red berry, dusty
plum and mild oaky vanilla crème notes. Fresh bright and elegantly
structured, it's such a pretty Merlot, and deserves kudos for not trying
to be Cabernet. Both killer deals, both in limited supply.
Cottonwood Marina Piper Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2006
Regularly $25, now $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
Here's a Pinot bottling that has been a go-to GWB favorite for
several years running. Winemaker Aaron Lieberman allows his wines time
to develop in bottle; the result is this older-vintage beauty that's
drinking great right now. We just tasted it again and yum! Price drop to
$20? Double yum deal!! Round, seamless and supple, the lively cherry and
tangy raspberry/boysenberry fruit is complemented by mild tobacco and
spicy savory herb notes, with floating high-toned aromatics. Offering
the plush ripeness of the 2006 vintage yet retaining an airy grace, this
is lovely Pinot Noir bordering on the sexy. Show me what ya got, hot
stuff!
Juan Gil Monastrell Jumilla 2006
$16.99/$13.50 by the case
This shop favorite is a perfect winter red: hearty and deeply
satisfying, versatile enough to pair with an array of dishes and
inexpensive enough to drink frequently as you listen to the rain
dripping on your roof. (It even has a classy expensive-looking label,
making it easy to jazz up your post-holiday décor). Boasting 90+ point
reviews in the major wine mags and a spot on the coveted Wine Spectator
Top 100, the glowing reviews read something like this: "With superb
aromatics of wood smoke, damp earth, violets, and blueberry pie, this is
layered, succulent, and long" (Parker). "This polished red shows black
cherry, licorice, mineral and tobacco notes, harmonious and deep,
supported by firm tannins. Medium-bodied, well-integrated and stylish"
(Spectator). Not tons of it left, but enough for you to grab a case.
Vietti Barbera d'Asti 2007
$18.99/$15 by the case
Vietti is a Barbera master, with a variety of bottlings clear up to $80.
While all of them are compelling, his basic d'Asti bottling may be the
best deal, as it transcends its appellation and modest price. Made from
tiny yields, this is densely packed and a joy to drink as it opens up
unfolding a wealth of flavors. The alluring nose urges you to continue:
blackberry, spiced mincemeat, black licorice and damp earth. The
excitement on the palate builds slowly; at first the fruit is red and
bright, lightly plush. Slowly it gets darker, chewier and more serious,
before see-sawing back into red and bright territory. It's like getting
two different wines for the price of one! Some wines offer immediate
pleasure but evolve little in the glass; others take time to come alive
yet provide a richer drinking experience. This is one of those wines.
Couroulu Vacqueyras 2007
$21.99/$17.60 by the case.
Just when I was starting to get sad thinking how most of the great
2007 Rhônes were behind us, this sporadically-available gem arrived.
Portland doesn't see it every vintage (nor get much when it does appear)
but when we have it, a lot of people get happy. Couroulu is a small
producer making wine in the traditional style, a perfect foil for the
lively fruit-driven bounty of the '07 vintage. Deep and long, the
Provençal aromatics immediately draw you in, with anise, lavender,
floral iris and peppery spice. The fruit is black and chewy with
highlights of tangy red berry. Offering both a slight meaty funkiness
and an appealing polished elegance reminiscent of Chateauneuf, we're
thrilled to see this old friend again.
Gilbert Cellars Allobroges Columbia Valley 2006
$20.99/$16.75 by the case.
If just saying the name makes you feel mystical, wait until you taste
it. This Columbia Valley Rhône blend is named after a group of Celtic
people who inhabited the Rhône Valley during the Roman Empire and
apparently made killer red wine. Beside the cool name, this wine
actually tastes like a Rhône red, a claim many Washington wines aspire
to but fall short. With 60% Syrah, 22% Grenache, and 18% Mourvedre,
black fruit flavors dominate, taut and precise yet rich and long on the
palate. Offering a northern Rhône meatiness mixed with pretty herbal and
floral spice aromatics, it is one of the best examples we can think of
which tastes both of the old world and the new.
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March 2010
This Winter's Gold Medal Winners
Amatorius Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard 2006
$22.99/$18.40 by the case.
"Deal-o-Rama" was the pitch to us. A private-label deal that didn't make
it far and is looking for a good home, we're able to offer this for a
ridiculously low price. Made by Josh Bergstrom from Shea Vineyard fruit
from the opulent 2006 vintage for just 23 bucks, need we say more? Well,
unsurprisingly it tastes like you would expect a Bergstrom Shea 2006 to
taste: a big juicy flavor-packed wine that starts with sultry
cinnamon-tinged cherry aromatics before turning dark and smoky on the
palate. Ripe rich and expansive, its pedigree is clear. There seem to be
more Pinot Noir deals out there lately but nothing like this. Limited
availability but hopefully enough for you to get some.
Owen Roe Ex Umbris Syrah Columbia Valley
2008
$23.99/$19.20 by the case.
A new vintage of this perennial favorite, this once again offers a
wealth of complexity finely embedded in a luxuriously-textured frame.
Surprisingly silky and elegant for such a powerful wine, the flavors are
pure and lively, a mouthful of fresh marionberries and blackberries,
with notes of violets, graham crackers and balsamic. A wash of ripe
tannins on the finish adds dimension and depth. Not yet revealing all
its charms (it actually drank better the next day after being opened),
this may be even better than I think.
Evening Land Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
2008
$24.99/$19.99 by the case.
Longtime fans of the Seven Springs Vineyard were dismayed a few years
back when the owner stopped selling fruit to local wineries who had been
producing single vineyard bottlings, opting instead to lease the entire
vineyard to an "outside entity." Rumors of bad intentions by these
"outsiders" were overblown and now that the dust has settled, guess
what? There's exciting things going on there and it shows in the wine.
The vineyard is considered one of Oregon's best (that's why Evening Land
wanted it) but it needed work. After ripping out phylloxera-infested
vines, they are replanting at a higher density, re-trellising and
converting the whole vineyard to bio-dynamic farming.
The consulting winemaker is none other than Dominique Lafon, an
eyebrow-raising legend from Burgundy whose Meursault bottlings are an
altar unto themselves for white Burg fans. The incredible care now being
taken in the vineyard coupled with such amazing winemaking talent
promises great wines to come, and it's an exciting beginning.
This "blue label" bottling, their first release from 2008, is mostly
Seven Springs fruit with a small amount acquired from "a few friends".
Made in a relatively drink-now style ("pour ma gueule" as Dominique puts
it, meaning for my gullet and soon), this is delicious, fresh and lively
with pretty perfume aromatics and silky upfront fruit. With a fine-boned
structure and detailed complexity lurking underneath the seemingly
simple pretty fruit, this is seriously nice wine for anyone's gullet.
Scavino Rosso (Piedmont) 2007
$12.99/$10.40 by the case
A distributor switch makes this "Super Piedmont" an ever better buy than
before. Scavino is a great Barolo producer, the winemakers true masters
of their craft. But Barolo is hardly a daily drinker in style or price.
Barbera and Dolcetto work, but a blend of these two along with Nebbiolo
can be much more interesting. This basic rosso has for years been a hit
with Piedmont fans; "Scavino for the people" as our old sales rep used
to say, suggesting A) it was affordable and B) it gave one the
opportunity to taste some of the Scavino magic. The rabbit in the hat is
that it's straightforward and versatile enough to pair with many a meal
yet sneakily complex, making it an excellent choice night after night.
The aromatics conjure pleasant dining memories: roses and tobacco,
cherry coke, spicy Dr. Pepper. On the palate it's a silky smooth surface
gliding above a rich base of dark yet tangy plum and the finish offers
sweet tannins, present enough to work with food, soft enough for barroom
drinking.
Louis Moreau Chablis Vaulignot ler Cru
2007
$25.99/$20.80 by the case
Utterly charming and frustratingly so. The 2007 vintage has thrown so
many good white Burgundies our way, there's simply not enough time to
drink them all. Vaulignot is a tiny, lesser-known premier cru (no one
seems to know where it is), hence the KILLER price for premier cru
Burgundy from a great vintage. Also, quite honestly, it tasted better
right now than Moreau's Grand Cru wines which need some time. A big step
up from the already-delicious village bottling yet not so demanding as
to need years of aging, ah yes, that's the spot. Traditional non-oak
vinification keeps the fruit flavors pure and allows the minerality of
the famous Kimmeridgian soil to shine through - the essence of classic
Chablis, and the original reason why Chardonnay is planted all over the
earth. Come home to Mama.
Saldo Zinfandel 2008
$30.99/$24.80 by the case
The second vintage of cult winery Orin Swift's Zinfandel just hit the
shelf and although they made more than last year, we don't expect it to
be around for long (last year it sold through in less than a month).
Saldo is a reference to a Spanish term meaning "from here and there"; in
search for his ideal blend, winemaker Dave Phinney sourced from great
vineyards across multiple appellations including Sonoma, Napa, Amador,
Mendocino, and Contra Costa counties. The hot 2008 vintage was perfect
for Zinfandel. The fruit is ripe and lush, a mixed berry coulis
punctuated by peppery briary spice and dark chocolate. Seamless and
pillow-y soft, the masses of fruit are held together by a weave of
balancing acidity.
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April 2010
Owen
Roe Deals...
It's the end of the 2008 vintage for these two Portland favorites and
our friends at Owen Roe are pouring on the excitement with a last-minute
deal. Not much left and already starting to fly at these friend-making
prices, there's never been a better time to stock up on these
irresistible catnip-like northwest reds.
Abbot's Table 2008
Now just $17.99/$14.40 by the case. (Was $19.99)
Portland's favorite addictively delicious Northwest red (we lovingly
call it The Crack) is a knockout this vintage. Already displaying its
come-hither aromatic charm and seductively supple mouth-feel, the
excitement really kicks in when you realize that it is just going to get
better. These guys are masterful blenders, and a huge part of the
Abbot's Table allure is the myriad flavors and layers your taste buds
can access. The aromatics alone are a delight: floral violet and rose
mixed with crushed black raspberry and cured tobacco. On the palate it's
silky and lusciously vibrant: the flavors are dark yet tangy with
marionberry and blueberry giving lift to the spicy dusty blackberry bass
notes below. Shades of caramel and toast round out the powerful finish.
No surprise, but the Owen Roe crew has crafted an incredibly sexy wine
whose rich and sappy fruit belies the elegance and balance woven in. 24%
Zinfandel, 22% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Syrah, 10%
Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Blaufrankish, and 4% Malbec.
Sinister Hand Columbia Valley 2008
$17.99/$14.40 by the case (Was $23.99)
Sultry and succulent as ever, this 2008 Rhône-inspired blend is probably
the closest one yet to David O'Reilly's original goal- a NW red
reminiscent of Châteauneuf du Pape. A chameleon of a wine (the raison
d'être of most blends) with intoxicating aromatics of sweet strawberry
and floral spice and a mouth-feel that alternates between taut chewy
black fruit and incredibly supple and sensual red berry. A beautiful
marriage between richness and power with elegance and suavity. It's the
end of the 2008 vintage for these two Portland favorites and our friends
at Owen Roe are pouring on the excitement with a last-minute deal. Not
much left and already starting to fly at these friend-making prices,
there's never been a better time to stock up on these irresistible
catnip-like northwest reds.
A Six-Pack of Goodness
El Corazon First Crush Cabernet Franc 2008
$25.99/$20.80 by the case
(Labeling Delay - Arrives April 8)
The much-anticipated new vintage of last year's stealth double hit (two
different releases, same wine), this again will probably play its role
as a heartbreaker. Every bit as sensational as the 2007 but even more
limited since there were only a mere 48 cases made - it won't be around
long. Reminiscent of October's release (which caused most of the buzz
since the May bottling sold out in a flash), this has a purity of fruit
and full-throttle freshness that fuels the wine from its heady juicy
aromatics to its long complex finish. Rich on the palate with dark berry
and concentrated cherry fruit and flashes of spicy mocha-tinged oak,
there's a wave of underlying liveliness that is the perfect foil to the
fleshy fruit.
El Corazon is the brainchild of Spencer Sievers, one of Walla Walla's
most talented young turks and his wines turned out to be one of our
favorite new finds of last year. Micro-production (48 cases here, 96
cases there) has kept him well below the radar but with wines like this,
he won't stay there long.
Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2008
$44.99/$35.99 by the case
The Beaux Frères wines are always a benchmark of the vintage, a trusted
window into the highs (and potential lows) of any given year. Either
despite or because of near-peerless winemaking skill, the wines always
reflect the vintage. In our 13-year vertical a few years ago it was
amazing how each wine had its own distinct personality, considering
every vintage had the same fruit source and winemaking regimen.
With the excitement surrounding the 2008 vintage we were curious to see
what the Beaux Frères crew would show us, and unsurprisingly, they
showed us excellence. The Willamette Valley has the soaring aromatics
that many 2008s offer, but also delivers on the palate. Sparkling with
nervosity, the spicy raspberry fruit is seductive and pretty, with
layers of baking spice and savory aromatics. Silky-textured yet firm and
alive, the gentle tannins are just present enough to suggest firing up
the grill and throwing on half a fresh salmon.
Solaria Rosso di Montalcino 2004
$12.99/$10.40 by the case (Was Originally $25)
Here's a rare opportunity - a perfectly-aged Sangiovese from Montalcino
(basically baby Brunello), from one of the best vintages of the decade,
that drinks great right now... for a mere $13! The distributor is
"taking a price hit" to make room for the new vintage.
Proprietor/winemaker/vineyard manager Patrizia Cencioni has applied her
elegant touch to estate fruit and turned out a winner. No baby-faced
fruity Tuscan here!; this Rosso impeccably plays aromatic sweet cherry,
tangy spicy plum fruit and a hint of orange zest off the age-influenced
earthy flavors of leather, smoke, game and tobacco. Sealing the deal is
a silky smooth texture with juicy tannins on a mid-weight frame, topped
by a long, long complex finish.
Gran Oristan La Mancha Gran Reserva 1998
$16.99/$13.60 by the case
(Shipping Delay - Scheduled to Arrive April 7)
We're always amazed at what the Spaniards have hiding in their cellars.
Here is an 11-year-old wine that is still drinking beautifully, balanced
and complex, and costs a mere 17 bucks. How they manage to sit on
inventory for 10 years before selling it rather cheaply I still don't
understand. But we're sure happy that they do because while young
fruit-driven reds are plenty tasty, it is a pleasant change of pace to
sit down with a bottle like this.
Mellow, subtle, and complex, there is a wealth of secondary flavors
dancing about and an exquisite balance between earth, oak, fruit and
acid. The earth notes are dusty and ancient, the oak offers faded
vanilla and sandalwood spice, the fruit is desiccated and condensed, yet
the acidity is still fresh and alive giving the wine a graceful lift. We
have poured this in several tastings and every time the response is the
same: wow, that's a really cool old wine for only 17 bucks.
François Crochet Sancerre 2007
$23.99/$19.20 by the case
This was a lovely harbinger of spring one dreary winter day when a sip
suddenly suddenly transported us to the sunny banks of the Loire River
(complete with baguette and goat cheese crottin). The youthful François
Crochet spent time in New Zealand and was inspired to combine the
bracing limestone minerality and zingy lemon/lime notes of the classic
French style, with the aromatic grapefruit, light stone fruit and grassy
hues of the Kiwi version of Sauvignon Blanc. It's a splendid success:
fresh and vibrantly fruity, surprisingly rich and supple, but with
plenty of clean acidity and chalkiness to provide balance.
Felipe Rutini Malbec Mendoza 2005
$13.99/$11.20 by the case (Was originally $19)
One of Argentina's first wineries (1885!) Rutini sources grapes for this
bottling from their famous 50-year-old La Consulta vineyards high in the
Andes Mountains. The big winner at our recent Saturday Argentine Malbec
tasting, this is bold and flavorful, with racy dark spicy
raspberry/blackberry fruit and a touch of smoky oak and cocoa.
Creamy-textured and mellow, it displays an elegant side that was a nice
surprise. Equally at home as a nice solo glass 'o red or paired with a
full meal, it's yet another "it's gotta go" bargain: originally $19, now
much less.
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May 2010
New Under-the-Radar Gems
Portland's McKinlay Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2008
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
The spring-like charms of this tiny-production pinot sneaked up on us
during a recent tasting. Although available since late autumn, like many
2008s it was still tight a few months ago. We cracked a bottle not
expecting fireworks but were happily surprised. Matt Kinne has always
flown under the radar and so have his wines; McKinlay Vineyards has been
around since 1987, one of the second wave of pioneers, yet their annual
case production still hovers below 1000. While the simple label and
modest price might suggest that you keep looking, your first glass will
make you glad you didn't . Burgundian in style yet uniquely Oregon, this
is light bright and satisfying in a thirst-quenching sort of way. The
cherry fruit is smooth yet lively, fragrant with cranberry and classic
Pinot spice. A perfect late spring/summer-weight red, it offers much
more complexity and punch than rosé yet provides similar allure:
palate-refreshing acidity, bright jazzy flavors and thrilling purity of
fruit.
Syncline Subduction Red Columbia Valley 2008
$18.99/$15 by the case.
This "Rhone Ranger" of the Columbia Gorge has in recent years become one
of the area's most sought-after producers and is on many critics short
list of top Washington producers. Like McKinlay, they continue to fly
under the radar and may prefer it that way. Syncline and other nearby
wineries have turned the scenic hills around Lyle into the epicenter of
a burgeoning family-run, artisanal wine scene, with a bucolic pioneer
feel that's a far cry from more established and crowded wine regions.
While the 2007 Subduction Red never made the newsletter, we knew it was
something special when we had to reorder it weekly until it sold out.
The 2008 just landed and my my, what a tasty treat. "Tasty" is of course
relative, but this southern Rhone-style blend aims exactly for that.
It's bright, it's juicy, it's lush but most importantly, like all good
wines that are a pleasure to drink, it's balanced. The tangy freshness
of the flavors sends your tastebuds into overdrive while the plush
carpet of wild berry fruit and peppery spice provide a cushiony spot for
them to relax before the mouth starts a-watering again.
Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Release Napa Valley 2005
$19.99/$15.99 by the case (Regular $30)
This is a quiet Californian gem that occasionally goes on deep sale and
when it does, it's a fun train to catch. We've worked with past vintages
and the response has always been great. And how can it not be when
you're getting a classic Napa Cabernet with the bulk of the fruit
sourced from the heart of the Rutherford Bench for only $20? Straddling
the line between old-school classy structure and an abundance of
oak-tinged fruit, the flavors run to dark cherry, plum and currant,
deftly draped over a gentle tannin frame. It's drinking great right now
as several years of bottle age have softened the tannins, lengthened the
finish and exposed the deeper complexity within.
Domaine du Poujol Proteus 2007
$15.99/$12.80 by case.
A Kermit Lynch mainstay, this Languedoc red has been quietly chugging
along for years providing daily drinking pleasure for those who cherish
the charmingly rustic country wines of southwestern France. The 2007
follows the same mold but it's sprinkled with a bit of 2007 vintage
magic dust that elevates it way beyond simple. Yes it has the dark spicy
fruit redolent of savory herbs and sun-baked earth and yes, it is still
a wee bit sauvage, but there is an elegance and completeness that has
been missing in years past. Long on the palate and saturated with
flavor, the Proteus captures a vinous snapshot of this storied region in
all its complexity and appealing simplicity.
Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina 2008
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
When most wine drinkers hear "southern Italian white" they think "yeah,
keep moving" or their mind just goes blank. Not familiar with the
varietals or flavors, they settle for something safe. Big mistake -
because this Falanghina is a stunner. We had it recently at Bar Mingo
and were quickly reminded how captivating it is in the hands of the
legendary Feudi winery. Exquisitely fragrant, the palate is round and
generous with tropical fruit and lemon curd flavors full of zingy
acidity and striking minerality. Fruit comes from vineyards in the
shadow of Mt.Vesuvius, whose eruptions have showered the area in
volcanic ash, creating a unique terroir. While Feudi's reds are the
benchmark for the region, the transparency of a white varietal like
Falanghina really lets the distinctive character shine.
The rain in Spain...
Valserrano Rioja Reserva 2004
$20.99/$16.75 by the case.
A classically styled yet richly textured Reserva from a great vintage at
an all-of-a-sudden fantastic price, here's a great opportunity to load
up on a wine that offers immediate pleasure but clearly has the stuffing
to reward further cellaring. The cup that is my tasting notes runneth
over: wonderfully layered, awesome complexity and intensity; still so
youthful with bright cherry and smoky spicy cigar box aromatics followed
by dark raspberry and blueberry fruit on the palate. With a mild rustic
earthy component and the beginning of a waxy-textured aged note, there's
plenty to keep the palate interested glass after glass, bottle after
bottle.
Can Blau Montsant 2008
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
An excellent spokeswine for the "other" Spain (the new, the
international style, the non-Tempranillo) this is proudly modern and
casually delicious while remaining balanced and still tasting Spanish.
Its more expensive reserve-level sibling Mas de Can Blau stole the show
at a recent blind tasting and this bottling offers many of the same
charms at less than half the price. A blend of Carignan, Syrah, and
Grenache from an appellation surrounding Priorat near Barcelona, Josh
Raynolds' 90-point review in Steve Tanzer's The International Wine
Cellar describes it nicely: "Sexy aromas of blueberry and boysenberry
compote are complemented by cinnamon and mace, along with a subtle smoky
undertone. Gains weight and richness with air, picking up notes of mocha
and candied flowers...Extremely attractive right now."
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June 2010
Let it Rain Wine, not Water!
White Rose Mercotti's Milieu Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2007
$20.99/$16.80 by the case. Regular price $33!
Here's the first of two "buy-rated" Oregon Pinots, a gorgeous 2007 deal
from a celebrated vineyard. Perched high on a hill not far from Domaines
Drouhin and Serene, White Rose is one of the Dundee Hills most
interesting sites. Typically offering a heady mix of wildflowers,
high-toned red fruits, brambly spice and a fleeting mild funk, this type
of vineyard cries out for a year like 2007 where the transparency of the
vintage allows all that complexity to shine through. The winery is
finally changing their, um, unique labels, hence the price drop. Wary
after tasting too many recent "deals" and finding them uninspiring, we
were cautious, but two sips in we all agreed: no question, this is the
real deal. With classic White Rose floral notes, the fragrant red fruit
is silky smooth and elegant and the exquisite aromatics scream Dundee
Hills: baking spices, rhubarb, bright cherry, and notes of underbrush.
Open-knit and seductive, this is drinking great now.
J. Christopher Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2008
$22.99/$18.40 by the case.
Looking for some brawn in your Pinot? Look no further. With all the
opulent fruit and structure characteristic of the 2008 vintage, this is
yet another J. Christopher Pinot that over-delivers for the money.
Packed with flavor, the fruit is dark and spicy, the flavors long and
deep and the texture commands your attention until it gets joyfully
tangled up in the grippy tannins on the finish. Tangy plum and black
cherry are joined by notes of cured tobacco and peppery spice. Although
already impressive, the excitement lies ahead: there's so much going on
beneath the cloak of dense fruit, this will only get better and better.
Domaine La Guicharde Côtes du Rhône-Villages
Massif d'Uchaux Cuvée Genest 2007
$13.99/$11.20 by the case.
A late arrival Rhône value that lucky for us missed the early boat as it
now will provide excellent drinking all summer at a whizbang price.
Located west of Cairanne and Rasteau, Massif d'Uchaux received its
villages appellation status only in 2005. Whether due to this latecomer
arrival or direct import savings, this is wickedly cheap for a villages
appellation especially when it is so saturated with flavor. A 50/50
blend of Grenache and Syrah, it offers the best of both: round fleshy
fruit with the vibrancy typical of 2007, with loads of spice (thyme,
anise, cracked pepper) and a hearty yet toothsome texture. A small
family domaine that is a year away from organic certification, the
little wine they produce gets noticed in France; this bottling received
2 stars (out of 3, most wines reviewed receive 1 or zero stars) in
France's prestigious Guide Hachettes, which translates as "vin
remarquable". Remarkable indeed.
Vincent Girardin Emotion de Terroirs Chardonnay 2006
$13.50/$10.80 by the case. Regularly $30!
A screaming deal in white Burgundy, this is one of those side projects
that starts with a lot of enthusiasm but ends up falling through the
cracks (that's why it's cheap!). Girardin is a prolific winemaker who
makes an impressive range of red and white up and down Burgundy's spine.
The offspring of a terroir-focused project with a group of sommeliers,
this bottling is 100% Côte de Beaune fruit and the provenance and
winemaking talent is clear. Rich for Burgundy (but very elegant and
restrained compared to California), it's round and creamy with flavor
pops of pain grillé, lemon cream, and gorgeous floral spices. 2006 is a
fruit-forward vintage and after a couple years in bottle this is
drinking beautifully. Somewhat limited as we bought the last of it from
the distributor.
Rock Horse Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007
$15.99/$12.75 by the case
The best buy in under-$20 Northwest Cab we have had for a long time,
this is a blend of two notable vineyards (Elephant Mountain in Yakima,
Hillside in Columbia) from the stellar 2007 vintage. Declassified from
Natalie's Estate single vineyard wines, this was juice destined for $30+
bottlings before re-routing. Rigorous in his barrel selection for the
flagship wines, Boyd Teegarden produces this as a "let's-be-friends"
intro to his winery. Pure Cabernet flavors of red currant and dark berry
are accented by vanilla toast and sandalwood spice from the oak. The
texture reminded me of taffy, firm yet pliant, as it pulls your taste
buds toward the long smooth finish. No mass-produced anonymous juice,
this has character and a sense of place. Only 117 cases made
New Crop of Northwest Summer Whites
J. Christopher Cristo Misto 2009
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
Portland's favorite local Sauvignon Blanc/Pinot Gris blend is back and
rocking as usual. Why do we write it up year after year? It's delicious,
there's nothing else like it, and it always sells out quickly - so best
to get the word out. Showcasing the racy vibrancy of Jay's Sauvignon
Blanc tempered by fleshy peachy notes, this blasts off with a citrusy
intensity before plumping out on the expansive finish. Vinous, crackling
with life and fresh as the morning dew, stocking up on this has become
for many a much-anticipated rite of summer in Oregon.
Walter Scott Deux Blancs Willamette V. '09
$13.99/$11.20 by the case
From the dynamic wine duo Ken Pahlow and Erica Landon comes this
voluptuous little blanc, a sexy summer sipper that has "lazy porch
drinking" written all over it. A blend of 80% Pinot Blanc and 20% Pinot
Gris, this is fleshy and succulent and mimics the joy of biting into a
ripe (or even poached) pear: juice dripping from chin, the intensity of
precise flavors washing over me. Throw in mild notes of peach and green
apple and a lightly lemony finish and you've got an irresistibly juicy
quaffer that will work equally well with spicy Asian takeout, grilled
fish or maybe even a bowl of maraschino cherries.
Abacela Albarino Umqua Valley 2009
$18.99/$15 by the case
Southern Oregon's Iberian outpost strikes again with another fantastic
bottling of this traditional Spanish white varietal. Abacela is best
known for being the first to plant Tempranillo in the Northwest but
lately it seems customers can't get enough of this, its white
counterpart. Seemingly more delicious each new vintage, it's one of
Oregon's most compelling white wines. While the flavors are abundant,
their expression is elegantly restrained. Floral but barely; cool saline
mineral notes are invigorating but don't overpower; almonds, yes, but
you couldn't call it nutty; the barely ripe peach is deftly balanced by
a shaving of lemon zest. A wine that intrigues as it refreshes, a feat
not easily pulled off.
NW Vine Project Pinot Gris 2009
$9.99/$7.99 by the case
Finally, some punchy party Gris at a party price. NW Vine Project is a
collection of wines from different winemakers blah blah...listen, forget
that. All you need to know is that this delivers a blast of fleshy
pear/melon fruit and zesty spice that will make even the worst hay fever
sufferer notice. Lushly flirtatious, bordering on promiscuous, this says
"fun" from first whiff to last sip, perfect for all kinds of occasions.
top
July 2010
Stay tuned...
top
August/September
2010
Stay tuned...
top
October 2010
Stay tuned...
top
November 2010
Stay tuned...
top
December 2010
Stay tuned...
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