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on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have
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check with us for current pricing and availability.
January/February 2009
Hearty and Comforting Winter Warmers
Andrew Rich Mésalliance 2006
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
(58% Merlot, 20% Syrah, 11% each Cabernet Franc & Malbec)
If you missed Andrew's tasting here during "Winter Storm 2008!" (as many
of you certainly did since we were blanketed with over a foot of snow),
you really should come by for some of this now that the snow has melted.
As usual, all the wines he poured had their fans but this Mésalliance
really stood out. Past vintages have been a favorite here but the 2006
seems like a huge step up. When asked why, Andrew mused philosophically
"The Malbec is a new addition to the blend this vintage, and it
certainly adds...something. I don't know what - a roundness, a there
that wasn't there before? But I like it." Right, how about we let the
slightly more precise Steven Tanzer review from International Wine
Cellar sum it up: "Sweet, tactile and dense, with a noteworthy depth
and sappiness to its fruit and spice flavors. Finishes long, tangy, and
ripely tannic. 91 points".
Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Cuvée 2006
$26.99/$21.50 by the case.
The stealth Oregon Pinot hit of the holidays, this took off in December
with more customers coming back for this than any of its colleagues in
the $25-$30 range. What makes this so compelling is that it marries the
finesse and grace that is typical of Bethel Height's style with the
richness of fruit courtesy of the warm 2006 vintage. Floral and pretty,
the swirling high-toned strawberry, dark cherry and spicy raspberry
flavors are clearly defined against a subtle backdrop of toast, cola and
smoky minerality. A zesty personality appears from behind the
medium-bodied color, adding lift and complexity all the way to a tasty
sappy finish. The 2007 version is just being released, but we've snapped
up the 2006 since it's drinking great right now.
Vaona Valpolicella Ripasso 2006
$20.99/$16.75 by the case.
We wanted to feature this in November after it tantalized customers'
taste buds at an October tasting. Unfortunately we weren't the only ones
who had discovered its charms and several restaurants were rapidly
depleting the then-available stock. Now the distributor has reloaded and
we can finally offer it en masse. Same vintage, same price but
unfortunately same supply issue, which is low. No matter, we'll run with
it until we can run no more. If you like red wine and are unfamiliar
with Ripasso-style wines, now is the time to change that. It's truly one
of the categories that consistently gets enthusiastic feedback from a
range of never-tried-it-before customers. Ripasso is made by adding the
leftover must (skins, pulp, etc.) from Amarone production (where the
grapes are dried before being pressed) to standard Valpolicella. This
then referments and picks up the chocolatey raisiny notes and velvety
texture that makes Amarone so popular. This bottling is stellar: lush
and concentrated with deep cherry fruit, cinnamon spice, and a tangy
kick on the finish.
Rouge-Bleu Mistral Côtes du Rhône 2007
$18.99/$15 by the case
Call me predictable but for many of us, there's nothing more comforting
than a good solid Rhône. The round fleshy mouthfeel and warm spicy
flavors are a perfect match to savory soups and stews and seems to warm
the soul as well as the gullet. Comforting doesn't have to be boring
though, and while there are many fine Rhône choices, we're excited to
share this 2007. There's plenty of buzz about 2007 being yet another
stupendous vintage and after drinking this, we can't wait for more
releases. It has all the rich heady fruit, slight funk and herbes de
Provence spiciness that we love and more; the quality of the vintage
really shows in the purity of fruit, the balance and the polished
mouth-feel.
Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera 2007
$14.50/$11.60 by the case.
Barbera is a lot like Chianti. Not the taste, but the concept. Its role
as comforting daily drinker rarely allows it to be in the spotlight.
They're universally liked but rarely named anyone's favorite wine,
except for a few stellar examples that can seem too pricey for just
"Barbera". Also like Chianti, there are so many available that
overexposure mutes their allure. That said, a really good one can become
the house favorite for months, and based on recent feedback, the
Briccotondo seems headed for just that. Boasting 90 point Wine Spectator
reviews two vintages in a row, they summed up the 2007 succinctly: "
Displays lovely plummy, chocolaty character. Full and silky smooth, this
is packed with flavor. Drink now." Amen to that.
Bodegas Mustiguillo "Mestizaje" Bobal Blend 2005
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Although pronouncing the name is anything but comforting and wondering
what Bobal means is similarly unsettling, one glass of this unique
Spanish red and your mind will be put to ease. Bobal is an indigenous
Spanish varietal making a comeback and when blended with other Spanish
standbys like Tempranillo and Grenache, it can produce a
personality-filled wine with fascinating aromatics and wild berry,
almost gamy flavors. Reminiscent of the Languedoc or even Bandol, this
has Mourvedre-like dark fruit notes, dusty herb loamy aromatics, and
gently gripping tannins throughout. Due to its unusualness, the
distributor had trouble selling it and lowered the price from $21 to
$15, a real bargain for this interesting of a wine.
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March 2009
Let's
Hear It For The Left Coast!
Owen Roe Ex Umbris Syrah Columbia Valley 2007
$23.99/$19.20 by the case.
Finally, the moment many of you have been waiting for. Owen Roe's
über-popular Syrah is typically released in the fall and many have been
eagerly awaiting its delayed release. Beginning with this vintage, the
wise men at Owen Roe have decided to hold the Ex Umbris back until
spring, leaving it in barrel longer and giving it more to time to
develop. This vintage is a blend of four distinct vineyards and although
the pros at Owen Roe are masterful blenders (the gorgeous Yakima Red and
addictive Abbot's Table are prime examples), a little more time always
helps to bring it all together. Smooth and lush as always, the
concentrated fruit goes from black to blue to red and back again while
edgy mineral smoky notes alternate with whiffs of dark chocolate.
Mouth-filling, even chewy at times, this is once again killer Syrah for
the money.
Evesham
Wood La Grive Bleue 2007
$23.99/$19.20 by the case.
Despite some under-informed rumors circulating, there is good Oregon
Pinot Noir from the 2007 vintage. Vineyard locations, harvest dates, and
a host of other factors all contribute to the final product and plenty
of wineries picked clean ripe fruit unhindered by rain. It should come
as no surprise that veteran Russ Raney fared well, and the proof is in
this bottle. La Grive Bleue is younger-vine fruit from Le Puits Sec (his
estate vineyard) and its distinctive terroir shows through clearly. '07
is a more transparent vintage than the fruit- heavy '06s, and for
vineyards with a well-defined personality, this is actually a plus,
allowing the subtle complexities to shine through. The La Grive Bleue is
pretty and elegant, and the dark cherry fruit is joined by black tea,
mild black pepper, and woodsy underbrush notes. Taut yet smoothly
textured, there is a core of intensity that will slowly unravel over the
next couple of years. This gives more proof that Evesham Wood is a
poster child for the old adage "buy theoducer, not the vintage".
Abeja
Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2006
$44.99/$36 by the case.
March is "Washington Wine Month" and kicks off in Portland with the
huge "Taste Walla Walla" event followed by a parade of new spring
releases. It's an exciting time for Washington wine lovers; one can
become delirious with all the tantalizing options. Since their inaugural
2001 vintage, Abeja has consistently been among the most anticipated,
and deservedly so. From the start they had a vision, a clear stylistic
goal: wines that are balanced, restrained and food-friendly while still
being powerful and intense. It's easy to claim to want that but not at
all easy to achieve. Winemaker John Abbott has consistently pulled it
off and 2006 is no exception. Aromatic and seductive, the red cassis and
dark cherry fruit is elegant and supple, caressing the palate with a
balanced mix of succulent fruit, bright acidity, and gently gripping
tannins. Like previous vintages, its finesse and subtlety is at first
disarming before the layers of complexity wash over your palate and you
realize, wow, this is nice wine.
Cave
de Viré Mâcon-Villages 2007
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
It's always reassuring to have a good under-$20 white Burgundy in our
arsenal and even better when it's great and only $15. Since that happens
less often than we'd like, we're thrilled to introduce this new arrival.
Wonderful aromatics get the ball rolling (it smells like true white
Burgundy) and the flavors and texture seal the deal. Lemony, vibrant,
and refreshing, the grapey exuberance gives way to fleshy granny smith
apple flavors before becoming warm buttered toast on the finish. I put
an unfinished half of a bottle in the fridge overnight; the next evening
the flavors had turned tropical and sassy, yet retained the laser beam
acidity. For white Burg fans on a budget, this is a keeper.
Rondan
Rioja Reserva 2001
$21.99/$17.60 by the case
This is a stunner - and a deal to boot. At our Rioja Reserva tasting
last month, this classicly-styled wine was a clear crowd favorite. No
surprise, since it's been our best-selling Reserva for several years.
Perfectly balancing the bright cherry and spicy plum fruit of
Tempranillo (and a bit of Grenache) with the subtle dusty earth, mellow
oak, cigar box and complex flavors typical of aged Rioja, the Rondan
further seduces you with its supple texture, energetic personality and
long finish. Reservas are aged for three years before release and
usually run from the mid-$20s to $30-plus. This beauty is a mere $21.99,
proving that yes Virginia, there is a Santa Claus in March.
Château
La Roque Coteaux de Languedoc Cuvée de Veilles Vignes Mourvedre 2006
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
That's name's a mouthful, and luckily the wine is too. A classic
southern French red, rich dark cherry and sappy raspberry fruit make the
initial impression, followed by floral violets, smoky wisps, tangy
boysenberry, wet earth and dried herbs that create a very complex and
pretty wine. Perfectly-balanced fine tannins and bright acidity build an
elegant foundation for a subtle persistence that powers the wine through
to the finish. Old vine Mourvedre is the classic grape of Bandol and is
usually wild, dark, and a bit animale, but Chateau La Roque has tamed
the beast and brought out the beauty.
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April 2009
He Dribbles, He Shoots... Into the Bucket!
Amalie Robert Dijon Clones Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2006
$39.99/$31.99 by the case.
On our travels in the Willamette Valley last Fall, this winery was the
one that just blew us away. The entire lineup featured
impeccably-crafted wines that were elegant, vibrant and full of
personality. Smack-dab next to Freedom Hill Vineyard near Dallas, Ernie
Pink and Dena Drews have turned a cherry orchard into a 30-acre vineyard
and winery. The estate-bottled Pinots are 100% Dijon clone, and this one
is a field blend from all seven Dijon vineyard blocks, planted on
different rootstocks and soil types.
"If it's not in the field, it's not gonna be in the glass," is Pink's
mantra. Small lot fermentation, indigenous yeast, and moderate new oak
usage display a light hand in the cellar. "Your job as a winemaker is to
let the fruit develop and express itself." The result? Bright high-toned
aromatics that won't quit; a creamy mid-weight texture with supple
tannins and brisk minerality; and a parade of flavors: dark tangy cherry
and smoky plum, sweet earth, baking spices, hints of black pepper and
cinnamon. Then a long, long clean finish that leaves you smiling.
Pink's assured focus on what he wants to achieve in the vineyard and
cellar makes sense: he spent time hanging out with Steve Doerner at
Cristom and Mike Etzel at Beaux Freres, two of Oregon's top winemakers.
"With Pinot Noir I'm looking for concentration and complexity - and an
interesting ride," says Pink. "Because that's what Pinot's all about."
Taste this wine and you'll see that he has delivered on that promise.
Vista
Hills Vineyard Treehouse Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2006
$27.99/$22.40 by the case.
Here's the other winery from the Fall that impressed us with a fine
range of Pinot Noirs...and a very pretty tasting room overlooking the
western slope of the Dundee Hills near Domaine Serene. A unique
winemaking program features guest vintners such as Michael Stevenson
(Panther Creek), Isabelle Dutartre (DePonte), Tony Rynders (formerly
Domaine Serene), and several others making individual wines at their
wineries for Vista Hills. Ten percent of all wine sales go to a family
foundation that helps working college students through school.
What about the wine you say? Like the Amalie Robert above, this
bottling is a blend of all the Dijon clone blocks in the vineyard. There
are classic Dijon floral notes on the nose, then take a sip and you
taste sweet cherry and spicy raspberry fruit, aromatic toasty oak, mocha
and a warm earthiness. A silky sappy texture balances smooth tanins,
creating complexity and a long finish. The Wine Advocate gave it 90
points and noted it was "an excellent value.'' We agree.
Zoot
Allures Willamette Valley 2007
$18.50/$14.80 by the case.
In the under-$20 range, it's hard to do better than this consistent
favorite from J. Christopher. We tasted it last week and it has really
opened up since release. Jay Sommers did not make any single-vineyard
wines in 2007, declassifying $40-range Dundee Hills fruit down to the
$20 level. A lot of that ended up in this bottling, giving it complexity
and class that is tough to match. Darker, richer and broader on the
palate than others in the price range, the Zoot Allures has a bit of the
characteristic Dundee Hills wet earth/tobacco notes before heading into
black cherry fruit and clove spice.
Pouillon
(Pierre Noire) Cuvée en Amont" Horse Heaven Hills 2006
$23.99/$19.20 by the case.
Inspired by the innovative and unique wines of Provence's Domaine de
Trevallon, Alexis Pouillon has created a superb northwest version of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah (50-50). Currently undergoing a name change
to Domaine Pouillon from Pierre Noire, this micro-winery in the Columbia
Gorge has been under the radar but won't be for long.
At a recent tasting their wines stood out from the crowd - especially
this beefy red which beautifully marries the lush forward fruit of
Washington with the structured complexity more typical of French wines.
Sappy and tasty, bursts of tangy red berry fruit float above a river of
dark Cabernet cassis flavors. A multi-faceted wine that reveals a
different side with each sip, these guys are onto something.
St.
Innocent Pinot Blanc Freedom Hill 2007
$15.99/$12.80 by the case.
Many wine professionals often find Pinot Blanc more interesting than
Pinot Gris despite being in the shadow of its better-known cousin. St.
Innocent's version adds more ammo to the argument that with proper
attention, this under-appreciated varietal can shine. A dry white with
some body and flesh to it, this Pinot Blanc is ripe pear, grapes, and
green apple, all accented by mild baking spices. Partially fermented in
neutral oak, the texture is lush and round yet balanced by gentle
acidity. Rich enough to pair with many dishes yet bright and lively
enough to serve as an aperitif, this versatile and tasty white deserves
another look.
Renzo
Marinai Chianti Classico 2006
$22.99/18.40 by the case.
With so many Chiantis available, it really takes a special one for us
to take notice. Not only were we extremely impressed the first time we
tasted this, we started to notice customers coming back for it again and
again - always a good sign. Then when the Riserva stole the show in a
blind tasting, we knew we were on to something. Add a 90 pt review from
The Wine Spectator and it's a winner on all fronts.
Put your nose in the glass and there's no mistaking it's classic Old
World Chianti. Swirling floral aromatics, tangy spicy dark cherry/berry
fruit, sweet earth, tobacco and minerality all harmoniously come
together. Nicely structured and complex, the Marinai is also rich and
accessible enough to make it easily enjoyable as well. This is a special
wine that's worth getting to know.
Introducing...
Corvidae Wine Company
Corvidae may need an introduction but the real guys behind the curtain
certainly do not. Owen Roe has always excelled at delivering high
quality for the price at all their levels. When they introduced the
Sharecropper wines, it made total sense; different fruit sources,
different prices, but the same overarching style and quality. It is the
exact idea here.
This new project sprouted after Owen Roe purchased the former Apex
winery and 80 acre Outlook Vineyard in Yakima in 2007, giving them the
consistent fruit source and space needed to produce a whole new lineup.
Corvidae is the Latin family name for all the blackbirds, ravens, and
crows that inhabit Yakima's vineyards. As always with Owen Roe, the
quality is amazingly high given their modest prices.
Taste these wines Saturday, April 18, 2-5 pm with
Erik Brasher, Owen Roe's Director of Winemaking
Rook
CSM Oregon 2007
$12.99/$10.40 by the case.
Smooth dark and polished, it's so nice that it really tastes like you
want it to. Cab Sauv makes up 77% of the blend and those are the
dominant flavors: pretty plum, cinnamon-tinged cassis and luscious
blackberry. The flavors are rich and intense but the overall profile is
balanced and medium-weight with a silky texture that belies the craft
and intention hiding behind its low price. Sourced from three distinct
vineyards to achieve a harmonious blend.
Lenore
Syrah Columbia Valley 2006
$12.99/$10.40 by the case.
"Wow" when I stuck my nose in the glass, "wow" when I took that first
sip. Inky black, concentrated and spicy, the waves of dark fruit are
peppered with caramel toasty oak notes and chocolaty graham cracker
goodness. A crowd-pleaser, a quaffer, a no-brainer, it's all these and
more.
Keeper
Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2007
$16.99/$13.60 by the case. ARRIVING MID-APRIL
A northwest Cabernet Franc that emphasizes its generous fruit without
erasing its unique varietal character, this hopefully will spark others
to follow suit. Aromatically flush with notes of black tea, cedar,
tobacco and mild savory herbs, the palate offers plush yet restrained
blackcurrant fruit and gently gripping tannins on the finish. Something
new and different without straying too far from the comfort zone, this
is the best northwest Cab Franc under $20.
Fable
Petit Sirah Columbia Valley 2007
$16.99/$13.60 by the case. ARRIVING MID-APRIL
There's very little Petit Sirah planted in the northwest; all the more
reason for David O'Reilly and crew to experiment with it. This is the
edgiest and wildest of the Corvidae line: heady aromatics of violets,
cocoa, smoke and soy sauce are followed by dense, earthy dark berry
fruit on the palate and a hearty chewy finish that's nicely sappy and
mouth-coating.
Very limited availability. Only 70 cases made.
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May 2009
Spring is Nature's Way
of Saying 'Let's Party!' -Robin Williams
El Corazon First Crush Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2007
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
This was our most exciting find at the recent Taste Walla Walla event -
we stepped back from tasting to confer "who is this guy? that Cab Franc
is delicious, and it's only $20? who distributes it?" To our dismay, the
answer to the last question was "no one yet". Happily that changed last
week so we re-tasted his impressive (& unique) line-up and said bring it
in. "This guy" is Spencer Sievers, who taught himself winemaking in his
NW Portland apartment, has worked crush at Reininger Winery for three
years, has a tasting room in downtown Walla Walla but still lives in
Kansas. He's moving his family back to WW soon (he grew up there), but
until then it's a rough commute. How he managed to produce such
captivating wines under these circumstances speaks volumes to his focus
and potential. His wines are bright, pure, and unadulterated, qualities
that he credits to three factors: very low sulfur use, neutral oak, and
the age of the wines (young). This Cab Franc just sings, the spicy
high-toned red fruit soars above an undercurrent of blueberry and the
fleshy juiciness is punctuated by a current of lively acidity. Polished
smooth and lip-smacking, it's such a pretty wine you want to come back
for more and more. Only a mere 48 cases produced.
Orin Swift Cellars Saldo California Zinfandel 2007
$29.99 (6 bottle limit)
"Prisoner" fans, take note. Saldo is the latest and greatest from Napa
Valley's cult winery Orin Swift. This inaugural release is mostly
Zinfandel with 10% Syrah and 5% Petit Sirah added for good measure, and
made in the same hedonistic voluptuous style as his other masterworks.
"Saldo" is a Spanish word for "from here and there" and this wine
represents the best of the best lots from vineyards all across Northern
California. Dark and deep, the intense blackberry/raspberry fruit glides
effortlessly across the palate before heading into a long finish marked
by scorched earth and toasty oak. Unfortunately (but no big surprise)
there is limited availability. 6 bottle limit.
Paul Autard Côtes du Rhône 2007
$11.99/$9.60 by the case.
The wave of exciting 2007 vintage Côtes du Rhône finally reaching our
shores has washed up this old favorite, whose personality harkens back
to the glory days of 2000-2001. Much prettier than recent vintages, my
quick notes tell the tale: "refined, subtle, bright, polished, sexy,
layered, very nice..." All this in addition to the expected generous
wild berry fruit and herbes de provence spiciness, for just $12. In
general the best 2007s offer both a powerful richness and a lively
freshness that satisfy on many levels and seem complete without being
overbearing. This is one such example with happily many more to come.
Croix des Pins Côtes du Ventoux 2004
$12.99/$10.40 by the case.
A nice counterpoint to the Autard in style, this under-the-radar hit has
become one of our best-sellers off the shelf without any fanfare and
unfortunately is at the end of its run. The Côtes du Ventoux appellation
refers to Provence's largest mountain, the solitary Mt. Ventoux and the
wines are extremely similar to Côtes du Rhone . A few years in bottle
have gracefully mellowed this wine, and it clearly exemplifies the
elegance and open-knit personality of the 2004 vintage. Decidedly more
rustic in character than the fruit-driven Autard, this is country wine
at its best: medium-weight and versatile with a hundred tiny flavors
hiding in wait, ready to pair with almost any meal. With an exquisite
spiciness and a warm strawberry-tinged fleshiness, it's easy to conjure
visions of sitting in the shade of a plane tree watching the dry hills
bake in the fiery Provençal sun.
Viridian Pinot Noir Oregon 2006
$11.99/$9.60 by the case.
To borrow an old exhortation from Robert Parker "run, don't walk" to
snap up some of this, the rarest of wine deals: good Oregon Pinot Noir
for just over ten bucks. I know, you're thinking "how good could it be?
If it were that good, they'd charge more." Well, that's a long story but
the short story is this: it's dark and rich (courtesy of the ripe 2006
vintage) and the juicy black cherry fruit has enough peppery spice and
acidity to keep it lively. Suspicious because of its price, we tasted it
five times in a row looking for flaws but found none. We suggest further
rigorous study by all of you just to make sure. A good Oregon Pinot Noir
priced for daily drinking? Come on down!
Exciting Northwest Summer Sippers
Abacela Albarino Umpqua Valley 2008
$18.99/$15 by the case
Who else in the Northwest would attempt to produce a world-class
Albarino, one of Spain's best-known whites? Abacela is famous for being
the first to plant Tempranillo (Spain's dominant red varietal) in the
Northwest, and captured the wider wine world's attention when the
influential British wine writer Jancis Robinson lauded the 2003 Albarino
as one of the two most memorable wines on a U.S. visit. Not only is it
delicious, it actually tastes like Albarino: floral yet crisp and stony,
with mild white peach flavors draped over a backbone of limey acidity
and little pops of chalky saline mineral notes throughout. Wines like
this remind me that we're so fortunate to live in Oregon and have access
to its bounty; with only about a thousand cases made, this delectable
wine won't make it far from home.
J. Christopher Cristo Misto 2008
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
This perennial favorite is really really good this year and needs no
introduction to many of you, but for those unfamiliar with its charms
here goes: modeled after the appetite-inducing whites of northern Italy,
this is 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Pinot Gris with a dash of Riesling for
aromatic enhancement. Offering the electric citrus raciness of Sauv
Blanc and the peachy succulence of Gris, this is hard to beat for its
sheer thirst-quenching ability. Wildly popular (especially once really
warm weather hits), it never lasts long. Check it out while you can.
Boedecker Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette V.
$13.99/$11.20 by the case
Rosé sales are off to a brisk start as this recent burst of warmth and
sun primed everyone for the promise of summer. Of course this being
Oregon it might rain all through May but there's not much of this so we
wanted to strike while the iron (or weather) was still hot. This rosé
was a hit last year and Stewart and Athena nailed it again. Rosé can run
the gamut from bone-dry delicacies to red wine look-alike bruisers; this
lands winningly right in between. Fat and sassy with plenty of pinot
cherry fruit, there's enough mouth-watering acidity to refresh the
palate and finish clean and dry. Easy-drinking and undeniably charming,
a glass of this is a festive way to welcome the long-anticipated change
of weather.
Siltstone Pinot Gris Guadalupe Vineyard 2008
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
With so many Oregon Pinot Gris available it's sometimes difficult for
one to rise above but this new release stands out. The fruit comes from
a 20-year old block of the acclaimed Guadalupe vineyard in the Dundee
Hills, a site that has only a few feet of soil on top of siltstone
bedrock. The roots penetrating this siltstone suck up millennia of
detritus, translating into more complexity and nuance in the finished
wine. Subtle notes of Asian pear, baking spices and minerals are deftly
woven into its medium-bodied frame, flavors that echo on the elegant
finish.
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June
2009
What's up in the Willamette Valley? We hit the road to find out.
In short, 2007 looks way better than early reports, 2006s are tasty
and offer great deals, and 2008 barrel samples promise excitement ahead.
Domaine
Serene Pinot Noir Yamhill Cuvée 2006
Now only $32.99/26.40 by the case. (Regular price $41.99)
With its price rolled back to its 1999 vintage price, this is one of
the best bargains of remaining 2006s. The last vintage made entirely by
superstar winemaker Tony Rynders, this clocked in with 90 point reviews
from both the Wine Spectator and Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
who commented "Domaine Serene has turned out its most successful set
of Pinot Noirs in several vintages." It is drinking spectacularly now
but has the stuffing to last for years. A smattering of key descriptors
from these reviews sums up the wine nicely: "Supple, ripe, generous,
refined tannins, focused finish"-WS. "Expressive nose, red cherry
and raspberry, velvety-textured, ample sweet fruit, good depth"-WA.
What a great opportunity to nab some benchmark Oregon Pinot Noir at
a steal of a price.
Lemelson
Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Thea's Selection 2006
Now only $29.99/$23.99 by the case. (Regular price $36.99)
Hello! Speaking of killer deals, this one was a thrilling surprise.
This was a top pick in two blind tastings last fall, despite being the
second least expensive out of ten wines. Tasters loved it for its
prettiness, its precise capture of Pinot Noir's elusive sensuality, and
simply put, its sheer deliciousness. It was popular all winter long and
it's about to get much more so. Beautiful aromatics reveal a beguiling
spiciness and the palate is open-knit, juicy and inviting. There's
enough structure to provide depth and enough acidity to keep it lively,
while the tangy dark cherry and vibrant boysenberry fruit caresses the
palate and heads toward a seamless finish. With all this going for it,
it was already one of our favorites in that price range, now, dare I
say, it's a no-brainer.
Cameron
Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2007
$24.99/$19.99 by the case
John Paul kept telling us, "You wait. The '07 Dundee Hills is the best
Dundee Hills I've ever made." A wild and crazy guy he is, yes, but not a
BSer. So we waited; "best" being a relative term, we weren't sure what
to expect. Well, our verdict is in and we have to agree: this definitely
transcends its simple appellation and price. "Best" in this case means
incredible complexity, nuance and depth. With piercing high-toned
aromatics of red fruits, tobacco and wild herb, it's unmistakably
Cameron Pinot Noir. Silky and long on the palate, the reticence of the
fruit allows the secondary flavors to pop and shine. Why so good?
Rigorous blending and merciless declassifying of single vineyard grapes
was based on a memorable yet simple approach: "We wanted to make a $25
wine that tasted like a $40 wine. If it didn't taste like $40 wine, we
put it in the Willamette Valley [bottling]". Can't argue with that. The
Cameron crew's faith in the 2007 vintage and their working overtime to
showcase its quality delivers. As usual, this will sell out quickly.
Acme
Pinot Noir Rosé NV
$11.99/$9.60 by the case
A John Thomas Pinot Noir for $12? Well, that's overstating it a bit but
technically, yes. The Pinot master appeared recently with this, an
intriguing summer drinker whose quality and seriousness go far beyond
its ridiculously modest price. While being lovely to look at and
offering typical mild strawberry citrus-tinged fruit, this is more a
food wine than porch sipper. Non-vintage in name, the fruit is mostly
from 2007, and has been resting in neutral barrel for a year. Barrel you
say? Fear not, it's not oaky; John thinks a touch of wood tannin allows
it to pair with food much better than without, something he loves about
southern French rosé - the way their slight bitter herb notes play off a
stinky cheese or an oily garlicky salad. Like most "serious" wines, it
takes a few minutes to open up, but once it does, you're in for a treat.
Martina
Prieto Pariente Verdejo 2007
$16.99/$13.50 by the case
Ok, so this isn't from Oregon but boy, this was one of the most
scintillating wines we tasted last month. Verdejo is a white varietal
indigenous to Spain's Rueda region (in the northwest) and was almost
lost to history if not for the foresight and tenacity of a handful of
wineries. In the last decade, it has resurfaced as a darling of the
international wine scene; taste this and you'll see why. Stunning
aromatics mix lime pineapple fruit with nettle and mint herb notes, the
wine on the palate is as pure and clean as the driven snow whose stony
intensity is softened by a bed of fleshy just-ripe pear. I know what I'm
taking to my next dinner party, I can't wait to share it.
Kermit
Lynch Revisited
Kermit Lynch was the original what's-at-the-end-of-this-road French
importer. His landmark book Adventures on the Wine Route
published in 1988 inspired countless wine drinkers as well as started a
cottage industry of would-be Kermits eagerly sniffing out the next new
undiscovered gem, all of which has brought an amazing bounty of cool
wines to our shores. A recent rooftop tasting (with 12 French
winemakers) at the swanky bar Departure reminded us that his picks still
deliver on his original vision: wines that offer a true sense of place
with no manipulation. Here are a few favorites.
Domaine
Achard-Vincent Clairette de Die
$20.99/$16.80 by the case
The tiny Rhône appellation of Clairette de Die is pretty obscure, even
to most wine professionals. Surprisingly, this is sparkling wine
country, where the indigenous varietal Clairette produces gently fruity
and fragrant wines with a wealth of tiny bubbles. Domaine A-V have been
at it for five generations, organic since 1979, and are heading toward
bio-dynamic certification. Clearly they know what they're doing as this
is a real bubbly treat at a blessedly reasonable price. Creamy smooth
yet lively, there's a starburst-cornucopia quality to the fruit flavors
but it finishes dry clean and again, creamy. A unique non-vintage bubbly
for your wedding or graduation parties, this pleases the palate and the
pocketbook.
Domaine
du Salvard Sauvignon Blanc "Unique" 2008
$13.99/$11.20 by the case
Another fifth-generation domaine, Salvard has been a favorite around
here for years but this bottling is pretty new. Appellation rules for
Cheverny cap Sauvignon Blanc at 85%; the remaining 15% must be
Chardonnay or Chenin which softens the raciness of Sauvignon. A lot of
people prefer the raciness so the brothers Delaille created this 100%
Sauvignon. It can't be called Cheverny because of the "rules" but no
matter, it's delicious. Vibrant pure and yes, racy with a backbone of
chalky minerality and pretty white fruit. Salvard + a dozen oysters =
bliss.
Domaine
de Terrebrune Terre d'Ombre 2007
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
Five minutes with Terrebrune winemaker Reynald Delille would be enough
to convert anyone to Bandol but we need no converting. Already true
believers, our five minutes were nevertheless revelatory. His enthusiasm
is virulent and when he compared the mouth-feel of an old Bandol to that
of old well-polished furniture, you could almost feel the waxy patina in
your hands. Not one to merely talk about how well his wines age, he
brought proof: 2006, 2004, 1999, 1987 reds and a 1994 rosé! Bandol reds
are not the easiest to understand young but this bottling is a great
intro. Declassified from the estate's younger vines, it's essentially
Bandol (in all its Mourvedre glory) that is accessible now. Redolent of
juniper, black olives and anise, the deep dark black fruit is lightly
tinged with a savory earthiness. Chemical-free vineyards, hand-harvested
fruit, all natural yeasts, no fining or filtration, simply the essence
of Bandol.
Saint
Martin de la Garrigue Bronzinelle 2006
$17.99/$14.40 by the case
An old favorite from the Languedoc, this 2006 is layered and
multi-faceted, tasting at times like a Rhône, then Bordeaux,
then...Languedoc. With concentrated black fruit flavors accented by wild
herb spice, it's firm and structured one minute then juicy the next
making it an awesome match with Texas BBQ (we just drank it with
Podnah's brisket). Kermit describes it well: "His intense, refined,
barrel-aged Bronzinelle is one of our Old Reliables...Tightly
constructed, the wine's form reminds me of the classic pre-1982 clarets
from the Médoc, but the flavors are of Provence."
top
July 2009
Just
Kickin' Back!
Chateau Fortia Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée du Baron 2007
$41.99/$33.60 by the case
As the 2007 CDPapes have rolled in, we've been pulling corks, praying
that the final product delivers on the hype and promise. One blind
tasting with a group of customers quickly buried our fears. So far, so
so good. The "Baron" was one of the stars of the tasting. Besides the
Burle Gigondas (see below), this was the least expensive wine- and was
rocking delicious. Sexy and opulent, this is layered with sweet cherry
and tangy raspberry fruit, peppery cinnamon spice, and a lively,
exuberant personality. Offering "lots of pleasure," this showcases
beautifully the balance, vitality and expressiveness found in the best
of the 2007s at a fraction of the price of the big names.
Burle Gigondas 2007
$21.99/$17.60 by the case
This orange-labeled longtime Portland favorite also shines brightly in
2007. The lone non-Chateauneuf du Pape in our blind tasting, it more
than held its own, offering similarly inspiring intensity, purity of
fruit, and complexity. With just a trace of that rusticity for which
Burle is famous, the aromatics leap from the glass: high-toned just-ripe
red berry, a zesty herbes de Provence wildness, even citrus notes; the
wine is so lively, it's like the glass can't contain it. Medium-weight
and juicy, the flavors are classic rustic Rhône but the delivery is so
smooth and bright, the palate delights at the incongruity. Still
incredibly priced at just over $20, it drinks as well as most wines
twice its price.
O'Reilly's Pinot Noir Oregon 2008
$16.99/$13.60 by the case
For those of you who can't wait to try a 2008 Oregon Pinot Noir, here we
go. Usually the first out of the starting gate, the O'Reilly's aims for
immediate (and well-priced) pleasure. Once it opens up, this is
pillow-soft and fleshy yet pretty and light on its feet, with hard
cherry candy aromatics, beefy red/black fruits on the palate and a peppy
spicy finish. It actually tasted better the second day so give it some
breathing room, then dive in and wallow in its youthful charm.
Sheridan Vineyard Kamiakin Yakima Valley 2007
$15.99/$12.75 by the case
A big luscious NW red blend is de rigueur for summer. It works so
well with burgers on the grill, plus it's perfect for out of town guests
tired of Pinot Noir (gasp!). This old favorite nails it with their new
2007 release. The 60% Cabernet Sauvignon gives it a beefy black fruit
richness, 30% Merlot adds red fruits and a lush mouthfeel, while 10%
Caberent Franc adds aromatics and zesty mild herb notes. There's plenty
of blends like this out there-this one delivers lots to like for it's
modest price.
Wm. Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux 2007
$19.99/$15.99 by the case
Chablis fans in the know keep an eye out for this bottling when a
classic vintage comes around, and 2007 has delivered the goods. Fevre
owns over 100 acres of vineyards in Chablis; much of the Champs Royaux
comes from their own vineyards with the rest from purchased fruit. This
is the little brother that could: crackling lemon and lime citrus, green
herbal hints, zippy acidity and gobs of limestone minerality that
screams classic Chablisian Chardonnay. It was the big hit at our Friday
night Chablis tasting, especially since it's one-third the price of the
Dauvissat and Fevre's Grand Cru brothers. An awesome wine at a great
price.
Abbot's Table is Back!
$19.99 a bottle/$192 by the case. Same as last year!
The crack is back! After the usual months-long dry spell, Portland's
favorite addictively delicious northwest red is back and this new
vintage is a knockout. Already ferociously displaying its come-hither
aromatic charm and seductively supple mouth-feel, the excitement really
kicks in when you realize that it is just going to get better. These
guys are masterful blenders, and a huge part of its allure is the myriad
flavors and layers that your taste buds can access. The aromatics alone
are a delight: floral violet and rose mixed with crushed black raspberry
and cured tobacco. On the palate it's silky and lusciously vibrant: the
flavors are dark yet tangy with marionberry and blueberry giving lift to
the spicy dusty blackberry bass notes below. Shades of caramel and toast
round out the powerful finish. No surprise, but they've done it again;
crafted an incredibly sexy wine whose conspicuously rich and sappy fruit
belies the elegance and balance masterfully woven in.
And now, the blend for 2008: 24% Zinfandel, 22% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 12% Syrah, 10% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Blaufrankish,
and 4% Malbec.
The Rosé Report...
Maybe it was the long cruel winter that caused Portlanders to embrace
rosé with such fervor this year; it is, after all, such a symbol of
summer. Whatever the cause, demand has quickly outstripped supply :
Peyrassol, Boedecker, Patton Valley, that cool Txakolina, they're
already gone. Here are two more favorites that will shortly join the
list. Check them out while you can.
JM Raffault's Chinon ($14.99, $11.99 by the case) was a hit two
years ago. The 2007 was great, but came in late September (oops!). The
2008 just arrived to widespread acclaim. 100% Cabernet Franc from
France's Loire valley, this is light, pretty and very aromatic with mild
notes of citrus herb hovering above the watermelon/strawberry fruit.
Fresh and zesty yet restrained, this is classic French elegance.
If you prefer your rosé a little fleshier, a little sassier, then look
no further than the Merriman Pinot Noir 2008 ($14.99, $11.99 by the
case). Made by Aaron Berlin from Merriman vineyard fruit, this is
juicy plush, roundly textured and eminently slurpable. It was a crowd
favorite at our June rosé tasting but alas, Aaron only made a mere 40
cases.
Small Vineyards Italian Direct Import Arrivals
Many of you know Small Vineyards, a favorite Italian importer. Tom Kelly
and friends work with tiny estates, mostly family-run and many organic,
who produce wines full of personality. Twice a year we can import wines
whose production is too small to carry year-round. We sent an e-mail
offer in March but if you missed out, we ordered extras of our
favorites.
Marchetti Later Harvest Verdicchio 2008
$15.99/$12.75 case
This was a smash hit both last year and the year before and it quickly
sold out. Marchetti produces a regular Verdicchio from the Marches
region, which is a deliciously crisp and clean. The grapes for this tiny
bottling spend an extra month on the vine - just long enough to gain
richness and more fruit concentration, but without making it anything
close to a "sweet" wine. Reminiscent of Alsatian whites with notes of
baking spices, creamed honey and ripe pear, this is quite rich and
structured but retains a sense of balance, finishing clean and dry.
Probably our best-selling Italian white of all last year, this is simply
fantastic for the money.
Martorana Colonna 2007
$14.50/$11.60 by the case
Another best-seller from last year's offer, this hearty Sicilian red
once again captures the flavors of the Mediterranean beautifully: the
sun-drenched fruit, Moroccan spices, and deep sauvage mineral earthiness
combine to create a little powerhouse of a wine. It's lush and
open-knit, yet chewy and multi-layered, so what at first seems to be a
nice juicy Italian red develops into a pretty serious wine the longer
it's open. This is deeper and more wild at this stage than the 2006, a
wonderful mouthful of flavors that transports your palate to the shores
of the Mediterranean. You can almost picture the fruit growing in the
oceanfront vineyard and sea breezes from the south rippling the wild
herbs as the sun beats down...
Poderi Elia Barbera d'Alba 2004
$16.99/$13.50 by the case
This lovely gem from Piedmont was a huge hit last year and far and away
our best-selling Barbera of 2008. Elia's compelling wines are rich and
luscious in texture with soft rounded tannins ("modern"), yet the purity
of the fruit is never compromised with overt oakiness or over-ripe
flavors ("traditional"). Like the stellar 2004, this 2005 is cut from
the same cloth, but displays the darker, chewier texture and depth
Piedmont wines can attain. Beyond those muscular additions, there is
once again the tangy cranberry and intense blackberry liqueur-like
fruit, notes of licorice candy and mocha. Incredibly this $17 wine is
made from vines that are nearly 90 years old. To sit and ponder what
those vines have seen is best done while sharing a bottle of this, its
gift to us.
Perezzeta Erio 2007
$16.99/$13.50 by the case
For all-around deliciousness, this Super Tuscan (50% Sangiovese, 50% mix
of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) was the hands-down winner.
Jazzy, lively, sappy, juicy - the adjectives roll off the tongue as
easily as this rolls down the back of the throat. The aromatics are
irresistible, all purple flowers and fresh grapes, and the tangy berry
cherry fruit simultaneously slakes the thirst but leaves you wanting
more. Super smooth, lush, and utterly charming, this still says
"Italian" with its bright refreshing acidity and pure fruit flavors.
top
August/September 2009
Bone Up on the Classics
Owen
Roe Abbot's Table 2008
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
The crack is back! After the usual months-long dry spell, Portland's
favorite addictively delicious Northwest red is back and this new
vintage is a knockout. Already ferociously displaying its come-hither
aromatic charm and seductively supple mouth-feel, the excitement really
kicks in when you realize that it is just going to get better. These
guys are masterful blenders, and a huge part of its allure is the myriad
flavors and layers your taste buds can access. The aromatics alone are a
delight: floral violet and rose mixed with crushed black raspberry and
cured tobacco. On the palate it's silky and lusciously vibrant: the
flavors are dark yet tangy with marionberry and blueberry giving lift to
the spicy dusty blackberry bass notes below. Shades of caramel and toast
round out the powerful finish. No surprise, but they've done it again;
crafted an incredibly sexy wine whose rich and sappy fruit belies the
elegance and balance woven in. 24% Zinfandel, 22% Sangiovese, 15%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Syrah, 10% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6%
Blaufrankish, and 4% Malbec.
Castello di Verduno Barbaresco Faset 1999
$39.99/$32 by the case.
I know, August weather doesn't exactly scream "Barbaresco" (it's
blisteringly hot as I write this) but those Oregon rains will soon
return. Besides, this deal is too cool to pass up. Last October we got
our hands on Verduno's 2001. We were thrilled to have an aged Barbaresco
from a great vintage for a great price. Imagine our delight when our
Verduno connection dropped this on us- ten cases of another great
vintage, even more ready to drink and the same great price. Faset is a
hilltop vineyard next to the famed Asili that is known for producing
earthy and complex wines. This 1999 is drinking beautifully right now:
with its silky mouth-feel and pretty perfume, it is all about subtle
charm with a wealth of secondary flavors that only an aged wine can
deliver including dried flowers, mushroom, tarry spice and dried cherry.
What a great opportunity to enjoy all that aged Nebbiolo offers.
Adelsheim Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2007
$28.99/$23.20 by the case
As with children, sometimes I need to be reminded again and again of
something before I learn the pattern and realize the obvious. Such as
this wine is gorgeous. We have been tasting (as usual) as many 2007
Oregon Pinot Noir as possible, seeing how they are developing and
evolving. Some that were bright and open are now shut down and vice
versa. This one has tasted great every time: upon release, Memorial Day
and most recently at an after-hours Pinot tasting in July. It finally
hit me: wow, this is quintessential Oregon Pinot - pretty, focused,
spicy, balanced and utterly charming. 2007 was a vintage where
experience was pivotal; Adelsheim's 38 years (!!) in the Willamette
Valley gives them a wealth of accumulated knowledge to handle any
challenges. But kudos must also be given to David Paige, the winemaker,
who since 2001 has produced an impressive roster of beauties, both red,
white and rosé.
Clos
du Caillou Côtes du Rhône 2007
$24.99/$19.99 by the case
It's no surprise that this Portland favorite is an outright over-
achiever in 2007. What delights about the vintage is what Caillou excels
at: purity of fruit, intense aromatic expressiveness, and a lively
vibrant characteristic that makes it sing. We've had the opportunity to
pull out some 2001s recently and the staying power is amazing. All the
fruit and complexity is there, balanced and seamless, almost eight years
later. Very few Côtes du Rhône bottlings can boast of that. But who
wants to wait eight years to drink it when it tastes this good? If you
drink it now, this is what you'll get: a heady bouquet of wild herb,
fragrant purple flowers, and concentrated cherry fruit. The palate is
suave, voluptuous and loaded with goodies: waves of ripe wild berries,
cocoa, grilling meats, anise candy and cracked pepper. For fans of
decadent Chateauneuf du Pape style wines, this is not to be missed.
Las
Rocas Vinas Viejas 2006
$15.99/$12.80 by the case
Speaking of being bitten by the Grenache bug, those Spaniards know a
thing or two about old vine "Garnacha". We featured the "regular" Las
Rocas in March to much applause. This, the "old vines" takes that fun to
a whole other level. "Purple-colored with a cedary, spicy, cherry and
cranberry bouquet and more structured than the "regular" bottling, it
has layered fruit, savory flavors, excellent depth, and a fruit-filled
finish." With 91 points from Parker and a new lower price, this is sure
to fly.
"Other" Whites You Gotta Try Redux
Summer is the perfect time to escape that white wine rut and explore new
varietals and exciting flavors. We tickled many a palate last year with
some exotic treats, and here's four great finds that will blow the rust
out of those tastebuds.
Domaine Des Huards Cour-Cheverny 2006
$20.99/$16.75 by the case
This mouth-filling, complex wine knocked us out from the first taste.
Incredible aromatics and flavors of almonds, sweet floral notes, Meyer
lemon and a hint of sweet lemon balm is matched with a subtle
earthiness. A creamy mid-weight texture pairs perfectly with vibrant
acidity and startling minerality. The crowning achievement is a
remarkable finish that is deep, wide and goes on forever. Cour-Cheverny
is a small Loire Valley village where Romorantin rules - an ancient
varietal that has been ripped out elsewhere. Michel Grendier at Dom.
Huards has focused on this rarity, and using biodynamic methods, has
created an intense and flavorful wine that pairs well with classic
summer and fall foods.
Selbach-Oster Riesling Graacher Domprobst Spätlese Halbtrocken 2007
$24.99/$19.99 by the case
That's a long mouthful - but it perfectly explains why this wine is so
much fun to drink. Follow the bouncing ball: Germany's Johannes
Selbach is a Mosel master who produces Rieslings that are
focused and complex, yet full of flavor. Graacher Domprobst is a
steep vineyard studded with chunks of blue slate that provide classic
minerality. Spätlese designates wines made from riper grapes that
provide more intensity, depth, body and layers of...everything.
Halbtrocken means "half-dry," which says this wine tastes crisp and
dry - more than most Northwest whites. Vintage 2007 in the Mosel
was classic, with perfect ripening of the grapes for excellent
traditional Spätlese.
Bottom line: This alluring gem is refreshing and intense, yet balanced
by delicacy and fine acidity. Bold fruit flavors of spicy pear, green
apple and lemon/lime, plus spring yellow flower and green herb aromatics
are balanced and delicious. As Mr. T says, "I pity the fool!" who
doesn't try this awesome food wine and great warm-weather sipper (it's
delicious all year long too).
Alma
Godello 2008
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
You've had Albarino and even Verdejo, but how about Godello? Another
"almost forgotten" white varietal from Spain's Galician coast, Godello
is tricky to grow and finicky in the cellar but in the right hands can
be more inspiring than either of those two more familiar whites. As the
importer notes "Godello, like Riesling, has an enhanced ability to
express terroir" and this bottle delivers loads of complexity for a mere
$15. Sourced from a single 30-year old vineyard full of black slate, it
reeks of the site. Wildflowers, peach blossom and tangerine fruit are
set off by a bracing minerality that borders on saline. Still
all-purpose enough to serve as a basic dry crisp white but way more
interesting.
Principi di Butera Insolia 2006
$9.99/$7.99 by the case
A wildly flavorful varietal from the Mediterranean's largest island at a
great sale price.
See Case of the Month for description.
top
October
2009
Evesham Wood Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2008
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
This is always so popular, I almost feel that writing it up is
superfluous. That said, like any great Oregon value (and this ranks
right up at the top), it always sells out quickly so it's best to get
the word out. No big surprise, this 2008 totally over-delivers quality
considering its price. So much about good wine is its texture, how it
feels on the palate, how it interacts with food and changes as the
bottle empties. This has that elusive textural quality that is soft but
not lush, firm yet gently yielding, a trait akin to al dente pasta. Your
palate moves through different levels of flavor, each revealing a new
and different nuance: black cherry, bright strawberry, damp earth notes,
and more. Although lovely now, Russ Raney's wines always get better with
age; so many times over the years customers have come back after
drinking an older bottle, blown away by what a mere $18 (or less) could
get them.
Cameron Arley's Leap Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2007
$34.99/$27.99 by the case.
Speaking of perennial best-sellers and winemakers who over-deliver, John
Paul's younger vine Abbey Ridge cuvée (Arley's Leap) has long been the
secret best buy in his line-up. With all the pretty sweet cherry perfume
and tobacco-y spice typical of the Abbey Ridge site, the aromatics alone
are swoon-worthy. The palate has that same layered texture as the
Evesham Wood with a trace of the famous "Cameron funk" and a host of
nuanced flavors before sliding into gently gripping tannins on the
finish. Cameron fans know this, but if you've never tried one, you're
missing some of Oregon's best Pinot Noir. No exaggeration, every year
new converts come in after finally drinking the bottle they bought (or
were given as a gift, etc.) only to be "totally bummed out, dude" that
its long gone.
Diamondback Cabernet Sauvignon
Mendocino 1999
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
No that is not a typo! In celebration of our ten-year anniversary we
have pulled out a well-aged Cab and are selling it for a song
(preferably not disco). Made by the winemaker at southern Oregon's
RoxyAnn Winery (back when he was in California), this is a rare treat in
today's release-it-immediately market. The fruit is mellow, the flavors
developed, the balance superb. Broad and fleshy on the palate with a
warm generous personality, this has the myriad subtle secondary aromas
and flavors that make drinking older wines such a joy. Red plum, dried
black currant, cinnamon stick, savory herb and more are woven into the
wine's texture, whose richness reflects the ripe 1999 vintage. For even
more fun, pair it with a bottle of the 2000 vintage (which we also have,
same low price) and take a tasty trip back in time. While the 1999 is
open and generous, the 2000 is more structured and reserved, hallmarks
of that vintage. Lots of fun to be had for a song (remember, no disco!).
Domaine Cros de Romet Cairanne 2007
$20.99/$16.75 by the case
We pre-sold a lot of this in our spring 2007 vintage Châteauneuf du Pape
offering and are thrilled (and relieved) to report the bottled product
tastes as good as the barrel sample, probably better. Sexy is the first
word that comes to mind followed by luscious, voluptuous, gorgeous...you
get the idea. Bursting with all the trimmings that make 2007 such an
exciting Rhône vintage, this offers an irresistible blend of precocious
fruit and lively acidity. The ripe raspberry fruit that dominates is
electrifyingly juicy and come-back-for-more tangy while the hard candy
and peppery spice aromatics are the most sensual of perfumes. I know we
have been pumping these 2007 Rhônes a lot lately, but when they are this
delicious, we should be punished if we didn't.
Owen Roe Sinister Hand Columbia Valley 2008
$23.99/$19.20 by the case
The Hand is back! Sultry and succulent as ever, this 2008 is probably
the closest one yet to David O'Reilly's original goal- a NW red
reminiscent of Châteauneuf du Pape. A chameleon of a wine (the raison
d'être of most blends) with intoxicating aromatics of sweet strawberry
and floral spice and a mouth-feel that alternates between taut chewy
black fruit and incredibly supple and sensual red berry. A beautiful
marriage between richness and power with elegance and suavity.
Sineann Old Vine Zinfandel Columbia Valley 2008
$38.99/$30.99 by the case
Calling all Zin fans! The annual release of the Northwest's most
celebrated Zin is upon us and as always, the flavor explosion has us
drooling on the counter. Produced from vines originally planted in the
late 1800s, the flavors run deep, broad and intense and Peter Rosback's
experienced hands give us a wine that is silky smooth, seductively soft
yet full of wild thick brambly chewiness. With ripe red berry, dried
cherry, baking spice, and leather, there's lots going on already and
even more to come for those who can wait. Wait to drink it, that is;
don't wait too long to get some because it's only available for a short
while.
El Corazon First Crush Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 07 REDUX
$20.99/$16.75 by the case
Here's a fun one! This was our most exciting find at the spring Taste
Walla Walla event...sort of. Actually, the bottling we featured in May
was a beautifully pure red that was fresh, lively and lip-smackingly
delicious. Spencer Sievers (El Corazon) only released 48 cases; the
other 25 were still in barrel, until now. Enter the same wine, only it's
been aged a year longer in neutral wood. Darker and more structured,
with concentrated cherry kirsch and mocha flavors, it's still delicious
but definitely different. If you tried the earlier version, it makes a
cool comparison tasting; if you didn't get a chance, this is still
rocking well all on its own.
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November 2009
Better
Tasting Than A Flu Shot
Parson's Flat Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon Padthaway 2004
$18.99/$15 by the case. Regular price
$39.99!!!
We interrupt our regularly scheduled program of Zinfandel for
Thanksgiving to bring you this breaking news flash, a Zinfandel-esque
close-out deal so good, it's silly. With a 93 point review from Robert
Parker, we sold plenty at its original price, $40. Then it switched
distributors, got lost in the warehouse, yadda yadda, and now they just
want it gone. Let's help them out. From Parker: "a blend of 70% Shiraz
and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 100% American oak, of which 80% is
new. It is an in-your-face, exuberant, flamboyant Aussie red boasting
loads of espresso roast, toasty oak, blackberries, cassis, and licorice.
Full-bodied, opulent, and voluptuous, with oodles of glycerin and depth,
this hussy requires drinking during its first 7-8 years of life,
although it may last even longer." Hussy? Wow, that's some wine.
Alloro Pinot Noir Estate Willamette Valley 2007
$19.99/$15.99 by the case. Regularly
$39.99!!!
We're doing what we can to keep the great deals flowing, so here's
another one from much closer to home. Alloro Winery: newer, small,
certainly high-quality - but how do you get your name out in a crowded
marketplace? With deals like this, baby! Looking to make friends and
move some product, they aimed big. It's been selling at its original
price because it's good, no doubt about it. At this price? Back up the
truck! Taut and balanced with pretty Pinot perfume, the black
cherry/blueberry fruit is spicy and plush with hints of cola and black
tea. Definitely worth checking out.
Mauro Molino Barbera d'Alba 2008
$15.99/$12.80 by the case
"Very Barbera-ish" is my first comment; Gee, what does that mean? Well,
it's tangy and bright with swirling aromas of roses and candied spice,
and like a great reduction sauce, that balsamic caramel note. The fruit
is high-toned wild berry that electrifies the palate and rides high
through the long spicy finish. Super smooth, youthful and zesty, it's
one of those wines someone might call "fun to drink" in that it has
life, sparkle and a hard-to-explain festive vibe - like sangria at a
raucous party, only much better tasting. Sharing many traits with such
Turkey Day favorites as Zinfandel and Beaujolais, it would make a lively
and classy addition to your Thanksgiving table.
Adelsheim Auxerrois Willamette Valley 2008
$19.99/$15.99 by the case
We're big fans of Alsatian Auxerrois, especially this time of year.
Although considered a minor varietal in Alsace, the wines can be
immensely satisfying; lacking star power they typically offer great
value as well. From old vines in the right hands (Albert Mann, Kientzler
to name a few), it can transcend its humble stereotype. With only about
500 acres planted worldwide, should we be surprised that the pioneers in
Oregon decided to give it a try? As for old vines in the right hands,
Adelsheim began to experiment in the mid-1980s; now twenty-odd years on,
they produce enough of this captivating white to sell commercially.
Reminiscent of Alsace yet distinctly Oregon, it's big-boned and has
presence, with softer honeyed pear notes and a touch of citrus zing
draped over its firm frame. Rich enough to stand up to all sorts of
dishes (in Alsace they drink white with everything) yet crisp and lively
enough to drink on its own.
William Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley '05
$21.99/17.60 by the case
An old-school estate with a long history, the new winery and label
haven't sabotaged their classic style. Located on the rocky Silverado
Bench in southern Napa, their style was always more about finesse and
elegance than just ripe fruit. One taste and you know it's Napa; With
shades of tobacco cedar and clove, the fruit is subtle and
multi-faceted. The black plum, berry and cassis flavors are
well-integrated and the whole package is smooth and refined before
finishing with a classic dusty Napa Cab note.
Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Kamptal '08
$16.99/$13.50 by the case
OK, so you enjoy the 1 Liter Grüner bottlings a lot: well-priced,
nicely-made and easy-drinking, an extra 250ml free! Plenty to like
there, but maybe it's time to step it up a bit, as they say. Well, we
can't think of a better step up than this. Possessing much of what makes
higher-priced Grüners more interesting while remaining accessible and
straightforward, it's a logical next move. Besides, it's just so
Grüner-ish, capturing its essence at a great price. Floral apple
blossom, flinty minerality and white pepper aromatics cue up the precise
green apple fruit on the palate where it fleshes out before sliding into
a dry chalky finish. Not familiar with Grüner? If you're looking to fill
a "dry white wine" niche, why not try something new?
Thomas Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2007
$49.99/$39.99 by the case
It comes, it goes, it rarely actually makes it to the shelf, and every
year I feel guilty to those who miss it. So while it lasts we have one
of Oregon's most gracious and pure expressions of Pinot Noir. Demure,
enigmatic at times and hauntingly beautiful, it is arguably one of
Oregon's best wines, period. No reviews, no winery visits, no
advertising (god forbid), John Thomas makes it seem so effortless. The
effort often is even finding a bottle; here's your chance.
top
December 2009
Sale Champagne and Sparklers
Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Ste.-Anne Brut NV
Retail: $50 December price: $39.99 Sale:
$31.99*
A gorgeous bubbly that offers a wealth of nuanced complexity in a racy
sinewy style, this is one of the most captivating basic NV bottlings we
tried this year. After our visit there this August, we are not
surprised. Two hours spent with young Alexander Chartogne made a huge
impression on us, an impression that the future holds great things for
him and that the future may already be here. In addition to being a
blast to hang out with, Alexander (who recently took over from his
father) is a conscientious and talented winemaker and his wines have
personality and soul yet remain deliciously accessible. Roughly 50-50
Pinot Noir-Chardonnay with a dose of Pinot Meunier, the flavors run from
classic minerality to hot buttered toast to spicy Asian pear, all riding
a wave of creamy richness enlivened by a core of focused acidity that
keeps it vibrant. Although we have loved Chartogne-Taillet for years,
the wines are clearly getting better. As his importer Terry Theise said
"I have always liked these Champagnes but in the past two years I've
started getting way excited about them." So have we.
Piper Heidsieck Brut NV
Retail: $44 December price: $37.99 Sale:
$29.99*
For fans of rich full-flavored Champagne, Piper Heidsieck once again
delivers. This jumped out of our blind tasting as an over-achiever in
the adjective department. Rich in texture with flavors of caramel apple,
vanilla and toasted nuts, this is sappy and immediately appealing with
enough brightness, zip, and finesse to balance out its heady flavors.
Piper has really come on strong these last few years with a string of
glowing reviews, great customer feedback and first-place votes in our
blind tastings. Come check out what the fuss is all about.
J Wine Co. Cuvée 20 Brut NV
Retail: $32 Dec. price: $21.99 Sale:
$17.50*
This great sparkling deal was too good to pass up, especially after it
smoked the competition when tasted blind. Produced from a range of
cool-climate vineyards in Sonoma's Russian River Valley, this exhibits a
flashy festive vibe and an exuberant personality that makes the best
California wines so hard to resist. Mouthwateringly tangy, the lemon
zest and tangerine liveliness turns creamy and lush on the palate with
ripe apple/pear fruit and pie crust notes that linger on the expansive
finish. Once again a class act.
Langlois Crémant de Loire Brut NV
Retail: $28 Dec. price: $18.99 Sale:
$14.99*
If the "J" shouts flash and casual charm, this whispers pedigreed French
elegance while quietly delivering loads of nuanced complexity. "Baby
Bollinger" may be stretching it, but seeing as Bollinger took over this
historic estate in 1973, there's no denying the quality and flavor
similarities. Refined and graceful, the dazzling array of flavors are so
well integrated, they never overwhelm. Toasted brioche gives way to
nutmeg-spiced hazelnuts and mild peach before honeyed pear and
shortbread take over. The flavors hang gently on the palate as they melt
into a creamy dreamy finish. I guess organic viticulture,
hand-harvesting and four years aging (two on the lees, two in bottle)
actually helps! Never available before in Portland; at this introductory
price, it is an amazing deal for such beautifully crafted French bubbly.
Delmas Blanquette de Limoux Brut 2006
December price: $11.99 Sale: $9.50*
Three years in a row? Are we getting lazy? Not at all; believe me, we
tried to find something new. We tried about thirty to be precise.
Brown-bagged, lined-up, may the best wine win. And not surprisingly,
here's the winner. It again clearly out-classed everything else we
tasted in this price range. It has a delicate mousse, rich yet subtle
flavors of fresh green apples, and a floral lemony finish. Although
Limoux is a stone's throw from hearty-red territory (Corbières,
Minervois) in southern France, its vineyards are a bit higher and
consequently cooler, allowing them to produce fresh and vibrant
sparkling wine which has been done here since 1531 (the locals claim
Blanquette was being crafted here long before Dom Pérignon arrived in
Champagne). Made mostly from the local favored varietal Mauzac blended
with some Chardonnay and certified organic.
Irresistible Holiday Gems
Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir
Reserve 2008
$24.99/$19.99 by the case.
Bursting with the promise of excitement that the 2008 vintage brings,
this is one sexy Pinot Noir. According to the winery "this is far and
away the best bottling of this [they] have ever done". Alarmingly supple
and lip-smackingly juicy, the waves of fresh strawberry cherry fruit are
surfed by heady aromatics of floral iris and lavender. Expertly blended
from a range of top single vineyards, this captures beautifully Patricia
Green's deliciously accessible style and displays the prettiness and
purity of fruit that is the essence of Oregon Pinot Noir.
Basel Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon "M" Columbia Valley 2007
$23.99/$19.20 by the case.
It's back! Last December's runaway hit Mirage Cab now features four
renowned vineyards (Pepper Bridge, Cold Creek, Canoe Ridge and Mirage)
and delivers the same flavor intensity usually found in wines twice the
price. Dark, full-flavored, complex and spicy, it also boasts highlights
of tangy red currant/dark berry fruit, smoky oak and a hint of earth -
all in a decadently lush package.
Domaine des Chanssaud Châteauneuf du Pape 2005
$29.99/$23.99 by the case.
With all the hoopla surrounding the 2007 vintage in the southern Rhône,
it's a great time to revisit previous classic vintages, made all the
more easy by this great deal. Wanting to make room for the new vintage,
the local distributor dropped the price, so you can dive into the lake
of Châteauneuf du Pape goodness for less than $30. Chanssaud is a small
producer who makes traditionally-styled wines; after a few years in
bottle this shows loads of pepper and herbes de Provence notes as well
as a chewy dense texture. Concentrated black cherry fruit and loamy
earthy notes are followed by ripe tannins on the finish. Old school and
hearty, this'll put some meat on your bones. A great gift for the
hard-to-please Francophile on your list.
Owen Roe Cabernet Sauvignon Dubrul Vineyard 2007
$69.99/$55.99 case.
And for that certain someone special on your list (including yourself),
the time has come. Although every vintage produced has been impressive,
this new release may be the most stunning yet. Growing conditions in
2007 were according to winemaker David O'Reilly "near perfect"; after a
moderately warm summer that fully ripened the fruit without destroying
the acidity, autumn brought four weeks of cool stable weather. These
four weeks of additional hangtime greatly developed flavor complexity
while keeping sugars and acids in near-perfect balance. The result: a
powerful monster of a wine that beneath its luscious black fruit veneer
harbors structure, intensity and a bounty of complexity. Only 400 cases
produced.
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