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Odds-on Favorites for Your Own "World Cup"
Walla Walla Vintners Sagemoor Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
$39.99/$31.99 by the case.
This was the standout among a slew of good wines tasted last week in
Walla Walla during a quick visit to see what was new. A serious
Bordeaux-style cuvée from a great vintage that's powerful and
well-balanced, the Sagemoor Vineyard Cabernet perfectly nails why the
Walla Walla Vintners crew has such a great reputation for their blending
skills. Soaring cherry and dark raspberry floral aromatics lure you into
a velvety yet intense mouthful of sappy dark cherry, blackberry and
spicy plum with a perfect hint of light herbs, dark chocolate, vanilla
and oak that cradles the fruit without overpowering it. Then the wine
blasts off with shocking depth and power into a long complex finish. Why
so good? Co-owner/winemaker Gordy Venneri explained that these vines
date to 1972 (38 years old!). The fruit was taken initially taken by
Leonetti until 1999, when Walla Walla Vintners picked up the lease. Some
of the oldest Cabernet vines in Washington, great vintage, $40? Come on
down!
Helix Pomatia Columbia Valley 2006
$15.99/$12.75 by the case.
We found another under-the-radar bargain gem at Reininger Winery, where
Chuck Reininger turns out tasty wines from both Walla Walla and the
Columbia Valley. The Helix Pomatia is a bombshell of dark spicy plum,
blackberry, hints of tobacco, mocha and floral spice that is sourced
from top Columbia Valley vineyards. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Syrah and Cab Franc, it delivers a plush ride with throbbing
horsepower under the hood. Flashy enough to get noticed without
resorting to boorish behavior, this is one of our top picks for summer
parties and BBQs, especially considering its bargain price.
Cameron Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2008
$24.99/$19.99 by the case.
Clearly marked by the warmth and generous fruit profile of the 2008
vintage, John Paul's latest release is already making waves with
newcomers and old fans alike. Dark in color and fruit flavor, this
begins with Cameron's trademark mild funky aromatics and a beam of
high-toned red fruit before blossoming into a richly textured mix of
ripe blackberry, tangy rhubarb and pungent spice. John has for years
made exactly the wine that the vintage gives him and this is a delicious
bottle of Pinot, even slightly decadent for Cameron. Produced from fruit
from Clos Electrique, Abbey Ridge, and Gehrts Vineyard, it has serious
breeding, and like almost all their wines, will keep getting better for
a few years to come.
Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre 2008
$24.99/$19.99 by the case.
One of the finest Sauvignon Blanc to come out of the Loire Valley each
vintage, this new arrival somehow seems to top even our high
expectations. Brimming with complexity yet seductively subtle, the
initial burst of lemon/lime intensity gently fades mid-palate to reveal
the treasures below. Nuances of white flowers and warm grass rippling in
the breeze bring a softness to the detailed core of flinty minerality.
Both delicately built and coursing with energy, it takes the classic
Loire Valley pastoral charm to a whole new level. A chilled bottle and a
dozen oysters is a match made in heaven or savor it on its own; a
beautiful way to start a lovely summer's eve.
Rosé Focus
With June's lousy weather hopefully now just a memory, we suggest diving
into the rosé pool with abandon. A can't-fail reminder of the season,
consider it a delicious talisman against returning clouds. Here are
several of our favorites that haven't yet sold out but will soon enough
- the best ones always go quickly.
Chateau Margui 2009 Rosé
$15.99/$12.75 by the case
Pale in color, delicately flavored yet alive with refreshing acidity and
zesty spice, this rosé from Provence is one of the region's best and an
excellent buy. Picked recently by the New York Times tasting panel as
one of their favorites (along with Peyrassol and Miraval, favorites here
as well), this combines restraint and focused power in a beguiling
manner.
Penner Ash Roséo 2009
$15.99 ($12.75 by the case)
For those of you keeping tabs on the home front, there's a range of
tasty Oregon Pinot Noir rose available but the big hit lately has been
this tasty entry. Lushly textured, crisp, and overflowing with soft
strawberry and cherry fruit and spice, this is a style of rose
irresistible to all but the most strident anti-rosé drinkers. Plus it
delivers loads of Penner Ash Pinot Noir goodness for a low price.
Small Vineyards Direct Imports
Marchetti Later Harvest Verdicchio
2009
$16.99/$13.50 by the case.
This unique micro-production Italian white has developed its own cult
following here in Portland. The grapes for this tiny bottling come from
Marchetti's oldest vines (hence the limited production) and spend an
extra month on the vine - just long enough to gain richness and more
concentration, but without making it anything close to a "sweet" wine. I
feel like a shill for saying this but the 2009 seems even better than
the super popular 2008. Tasting like an inspired Alsatian blend, this
wine challenges me not to write a run-on sentence. Lush yet structured,
it is a wine of body and power but remains balanced, with a raft of
flavors suggesting baking spices (nutmeg), honeyed peach, tangerine zest
and lemon custard in a buttery pie crust. Definitely our best-selling
Italian white of all last year, this is simply fantastic for the money.
Perezzeta Erio 2008 (Tuscany)
$16.99/$13.50 by the case.
The stealth favorite red of last year's offering, when it came to
all-around deliciousness, this Super Tuscan was the hands-down winner.
The 2008 is the same blend and again is rocking good, yet a bit more
serious (in a good way). Eschewing the all-out party style of the 2007,
this strikes an appealing balance between the fruity and the traditional
Tuscan style. Darker and more meaty, the fruit flavors are nuanced with
fresh boysenberry, dried cherry and spiced plum cake. Structured yet
supple there is a fine interplay between the dense dark cedary fruit and
bursts of tangy refreshing acidity, hallmarks of the best Tuscan reds.
Palama Primitivo 2009 (Puglia)
$13.50/$10.80 by the case.
When the hankering hits for one of those lusty southern Italian reds,
you could do much much worse than this. We've tasted some uninspiring
mass-produced Primitivo lately that offered little more than
one-dimensional sugary jam flavors. This is a whole different animal, a
welcome surprise considering its price is similar to the industrial
stuff. It has a lush blackberry headiness that screams Mediterranean yet
offers an elegant side, a delicate flower in a rugged landscape. Floral
perfume aromatics mix with notes of tobacco, citrus, and wild herbs
dried in the sun, and while the fruit is ripe, it remains bright and
fresh. It reminds me of those incredible (and incredibly cheap) table
wines you drink while in Italy but can never seem to get in the US.
Except this one you can.
Marchetti Montepulciano 2007 (Marche)
$11.50/$9.20 by the case.
While most Americans are familiar with the Abruzzo region, this comes
from the lesser-known Rosso Conero DOC. Past vintages have been
available but priced at around $17, they didn't fly off the shelf due to
the region's relative anonymity. Marchetti simplified the label to refer
to the widely-recognized grape varietal (Montepulciano), lowered the
price to goose it a bit and voilà: a seriously powerful wine for just
over ten bucks. Darker denser and meatier than your average
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, this offers a chewy mouthful of dark ripe plum
balanced by elegant high-toned cranberry, smoky spicy salami, and a
graham cracker note.
Curious
about wines we’ve covered in the past?
Click here to see previous months’
musings, reviews and comments.
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